REF. 5175 Manually wound mechanical movement Calibre 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM. Grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, minute repeater. Strikework mode display (silence/grande sonnerie/petite sonnerie). Alarm with time strike. Date repeater. Going train power-reserve indicator. Strikework power-reserve indicator. Strikework isolator indicator (chimes enabled/disabled). Second time zone. Day/night indicator for second time zone. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Display of day, month, and date. Leap-year cycle. Four-digit year display. Moon phases. 24-hour and minute subdial.
Crown position indicator (winding/alarm setting/handsetting). Solid gold dials, silvery opaline. Time side with manually guilloched center and applied gold Roman numerals. Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, dark brown, hand-patinated. Solid gold fold-over clasp, fully hand-engraved. Reversible case, fully hand-engraved, protected against moisture and dust ingress, not water resistant. Rose gold. Diameter: 47.4 mm. Height: 16.1 mm.
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime
The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime REF. 5175 is destined to hold a singular place in horological history. A unique double-dial, fully reversible supercomplication wristwatch, with a total of 20 complications, it is an absolute micromechanical masterpiece, featuring complex mechanisms and elaborate case decoration.
The 20 complications at a glance: 1. Grande sonnerie; 2. Petite sonnerie; 3. Minute repeater; 4. Strikework mode display (silence/grande sonnerie/petite sonnerie); 5. Alarm with time strike; 6. Perpetual date repeater; 7. Going train power-reserve indicator; 8. Strikework power-reserve indicator; 9. Strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled); 10. Second time zone; 11. Second time zone day/night indicator; 12. Instantaneous perpetual calendar; 13. Day-of-week display; 14. Month display; 15. Date display (on both dials); 16. Leap-year cycle; 17. Four-digit year display; 18. Moon phases; 19. 24-hour and minute subdial; 20. Crown position indicator RAH (winding R, alarm setting A, and handsetting H.).
REF. 5275 Manually wound mechanical movement caliber 32-650 HGS PS. Automatic hour strike. Jumping hours in aperture. Jumping minute hand. Jumping subsidiary seconds hand. Solid gold dial, silvery opaline embossed décor, Satin-finished off-center minute circle with black printed Arabic numerals. Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black. Fold-over clasp engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839-2014” and engraved Calatrava Cross in the center. Solid case back engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839-2014.” Case with engraved flanks, protected against dust and moisture, not water resistant. Platinum. Case dimensions: 39.8 x 47.4 mm. Height: 11.3 mm.
Patek Philippe Chiming Jump Hour
Jumping indications are acutely complex horological mechanisms, and the last time Patek Philippe included a watch featuring them in a commemorative collection was 1989, to celebrate its 150th anniversary; the REF. 3969. This piece, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a jumping hour in an aperture and center minutes, has become a coveted collectors’ item – the more so because this type of complication, mainly produced by Patek Philippe in the 1920s-1930s in pocket and wristwatches, is no longer available in the regular collection. But now the company breathes new life into this languidly lovely model, and with a movement and appearance even more refined.
The dial shows an aperture for the digital hour display at twelve o’clock, a minute hand in the upper dial, and small seconds at six o’clock. These three jump as one, instantaneously – something achieved with a completely new movement, the caliber 32-650 HGS PS, which has four patent applications. Jumping mechanisms usually call for energy-hungry jumper systems, but this caliber manages entirely with the use of gears, with the displays integrated into the base movement. A total of 438 parts achieve this. A patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® adds to the movement’s long-term reliability and accuracy rate.
Its exclusive striking mechanism makes the watch additionally delightful. At the top of each hour, a hammer strikes a single blow on a gong, synchronized perfectly with the hour’s jump in an aperture, and the jump of the minutes and seconds. This sound indication can be de-activated using a small slide at ten o’clock.
The movement sits inside a timeless tonneau-shaped platinum case. The caseband is patterned with engraved floral motifs, and the solid gold dial features a floral embossed decoration.
This graceful dance of time is limited to 175 editions.
REF. 5575 Self-winding mechanical movement caliber 240 HU LU. Moon phases. Display of 24 time zones, day/night and 24-hour indications. Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black. Fold-over clasp engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839-2014.” Solid case back engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839-2014.” Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Diameter: 39.8 mm. Height: 9.5 mm.
REF. 7175 As above, but: Bezel set with 70 diamonds (0.6 ct). Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny beige. Rose gold. Diameter: 38 mm. Height: 9.36 mm.
Men’s and Ladies’ World Time Moon
REF. 5575 and REF. 7175
Launched in 1930 and patented in 1959, Patek Philippe’s World Time innovation has reached cult status with seasoned travelers and collectors. With its two rotating disks, it shows the time simultaneously in all 24 time zones; a subsequent patented mechanism enables the owner of the watch, when changing time zones, to correct all the displays with the single push of a button.
For its 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe has reinterpreted this legendary model, giving it a hauntingly poetic moon phase display. To help it venture into these new technical and aesthetic dimensions, the manufacture has developed a new version of ultra-thin self-winding movement: the caliber 240 HU LU. The engineers have dispensed with the usual aperture and its disk adorned with two moons; instead, a single, large, richly atmospheric moon turns clockwise, at the center of the dial, against a star-studded nocturnal sky. The effect is achieved with two very thin disks of mineral glass. The lower disk, depicting the moon, completes a rotation in a lunar month. The fixed upper disk is a heart-shaped mask; its outline reveals the changing visible portion of the moon night after night with astonishing accuracy. A complex new metalization technique has produced a moon whose face stands out against its starry background with almost photographic realism.
This voyage in time and space is offered in models for men and women, with subtle variations. The larger 39.8 mm men’s REF. 5575 pairs an 18k white gold case with a black dial, and is produced in a limited edition of 1,300. Slightly smaller at 38 mm, the romantic and feminine REF. 7175 is in a sunset-soft 18k rose gold, highlighted by the fiery sparkle of 70 flawless diamonds in a bezel framing a silvery opaline dial. It is available in a limited edition of 450. Both World Time Moon watches feature the Geneva time-zone, instead of the usual Paris time-zone.
REF. 5975 Self-winding column-wheel chronograph movement caliber CH 28-520. Multi-scale chronograph: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer, Sweep chronograph hand. Central chronograph hand. Dial: silvery opaline (yellow, white, rose gold) or black lacquered, polished (platinum). Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown (yellow gold), shiny dark chocolate brown (rose gold), or shiny black (white gold and platinum). Fold-over clasp engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839-2014.” Solid case back engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839-2014.” Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose gold, or platinum. Diameter: 40 mm. Height: 10.25 mm.
REF. 4675 As above, but: Silvery opaline dial, gray-brown printed scales, 12 diamond-baguette markers (0.23 ct). Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny peacock blue (white gold) or shiny purple (rose gold). White or rose gold. Diameter: 37 mm. Height: 10.1 mm.
REF. 5975 and REF. 4675
A virtuoso in the world of complications, Patek Philippe has always placed high value on the chronograph – a watch used as a stopwatch but combined with a detailed time display. Between 2005 and 2012, the company underlined its supremacy with eight new chronographs, from the classic manually wound or the self-winding column wheel chronograph to the grand complication perpetual split-seconds edition.
Now, for its anniversary, the company pays tribute to this heritage by looking back to the instrument’s origins and recreating the chronograph in its purest form – a multi-talented instrument whose face blends technical savoir faire with absolute clarity, in two designs tailored for men and for women. The Multi-Scale Chronograph offers a tachymeter for calculating speed; a telemeter for measuring distance; and a pulsometer for quickly taking the pulse. Both male and female models are powered by the new calibre version of self-winding column-wheel vertical clutch chronograph CH 28-520, which allows the sweep chronograph hand to be used as a conventional seconds hand.
The case, too, reinvents tradition with creative flair. It looks classic but possesses subtle original details, such as the double lugs at case side and bezel. The two versions have their own exclusive design. REF. 5975 for men is notable for the scientific detail of its dial, with the telemeter at the outer edge, then the pulsometer, and at the center, three rings of the tachymeter, measuring speeds from 20 kilometers per hour. There are three limited editions of 400 watches each in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold, each with a silvery opaline dial and black transfer numerals, and one limited series of 100 pieces in platinum, with a black dial. The women’s REF. 4675 is a little smaller in diameter and features the tachymeter as its outer dial, then the pulsometer, and a central telemeter. Its layout has a delicate finesse, with baguette-diamond hour markers. The REF. 4675 is created in two limited editions: 150 watches in 18k white gold, 150 in 18k rose gold, both with silvery opaline dial with brown transfer numerals.