Introduction

992/128J
- Rare Handcrafts
Manual winding

Pocket watch with back in miniature painting on enamel.

A painting by the Austrian artist Friedrich Gauermann (1807–1862) depicting a tavern in an Alpine setting inspired the decoration of this unique piece in yellow gold. The artist used the complex technique of Grand Feu miniature painting on enamel, finishing with transparent flux according to the Geneva method.

Starting with a base layer of white enamel and using tiny brushes, he built up his picture in small deft touches. He worked with a palette of 21 enamel colors, made from finely crushed metallic oxides mixed with rare oils. Several final coats of flux, or transparent enamel, protect the piece and intensify its brilliance. This exacting procedure called for 27 firings at temperatures ranging from 800°C to 830°C. The dial, in white enamel over yellow gold, presents yellow-gold applied Breguet numerals. A cornelian cabochon (0.26 ct) decorates the crown.

This pocket watch is accompanied by a handcrafted yellow-gold stand on a grey-veined white marble base.

It houses the caliber 17’’’ LEP PS manually wound movement with small seconds.

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Caliber

17''' LEP PS
Manual winding

Patek Philippe Caliber 17''' LEP PS - Front
Front Back

17''' LEP PS
Manual winding

Overall diameter: 38.65 mm. Height: 3.8 mm. Number of parts: 137. Bridges: 7. Jewels: 18. Power-reserve: Min. 50 hours. Balance: Plain with screws. Frequency: 18 000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz). Balance spring: Breguet.

Savoir faire

Rare Handcrafts
The enameler’s techniques

The enameler uses one of four traditional techniques, or perhaps a combination; but rare is she – in the watchmaking world, most enamelers are women – who masters them all.

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