Introduction

992/132J
- Rare Handcrafts
Manual winding

Pocket watch with back in cloisonné enamel and dial guilloched under enamel.

A toucan, displaying his immense beak, stands out on a tropical background evoking the Amazon rainforest on the back of this unique piece in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel.

Creating the contours of the bird and the vegetation required 143 cm of gold wire (1.15 g) measuring 0.1 x 0.45 mm in cross-section, cut into 345 sections. The enameling called for transparent, opaque, semiopaque and opalescent enamels in 38 colors and approximately 20 firings at temperatures ranging from 800°C to 840°C. The yellow-gold dial was hand-guilloched with a pattern recalling the structure of the feathers and then coated with transparent green enamel using the technique of flinqué enameling. The handcrafted yellow-gold bow is shaped to represent bamboo. A cornelian cabochon (0.23 ct) decorates the crown.

This pocket watch is accompanied by a yellow-gold handcrafted stand on an oval-shaped green chalcedony base set with a cornelian cabochon (0.27 ct).

It houses the caliber 17’’’ LEP PS manually wound movement with small seconds.

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Caliber

17''' LEP PS
Manual winding

Patek Philippe Caliber 17''' LEP PS - Front
Front Back

17''' LEP PS
Manual winding

Overall diameter: 38.65 mm. Height: 3.8 mm. Number of parts: 137. Bridges: 7. Jewels: 18. Power-reserve: Min. 50 hours. Balance: Plain with screws. Frequency: 18 000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz). Balance spring: Breguet.

Savoir faire

Rare Handcrafts
The enameler’s techniques

The enameler uses one of four traditional techniques, or perhaps a combination; but rare is she – in the watchmaking world, most enamelers are women – who masters them all.

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