C - 日历
Abbreviation for “calendar” = simple date = simple calendar in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“calendar - 日历”的缩写 = 简单日期 = 简单日历。
Cabled - 缆线式指针
Refers to a hand shaped like a cable.形状如缆线的指针。
Calatrava - Calatrava系列
An emblematic and quintessentially classic Patek Philippe collection since 1932. The lines of this timeless watch with a round case for men and ladies, are directly inspired by the Bauhaus artistic movement. Featuring a bezel that may be flat, round, gem-set or adorned with a hobnail pattern, the watch itself may be ultra-thin or fitted with a cover protecting the sapphire case back.百达翡丽自1932 年一直沿用的经典系列表。这一经久不衰的男/女手表系列均有圆形表壳,设计灵感直接来自包豪斯艺术运动。表框既可为扁平、圆形、镶有宝石,也可饰以平头钉图案,表型即可为超薄型,又可配有表盖以保护蓝宝石底盖。
Calendar - 日历
A complication that provides the various indications of the conventional calendar such as the date, the date, the week, the month and the year. Patek Philippe watches include:
- Simple calendars: they give the date through an aperture or by means of a hand, indicating the number of the day from 1 to 31 within the month. They must be manually adjusted at the end of 30-day months and at the end of February.
- Annual calendar: a complete calendar (day, date and month), patented in 1996, which requires a single manual adjustment each year, at the end of February.
- Perpetual calendars, which take account of monthly variations, including those of leap years, until the year 2100 (the next century year not divisible by 400).
- The secular perpetual calendar, which takes account of all the variables in our calendar, including that of century years not divisible by 400. This is the most sophisticated calendar in existence. It powers certain pocket watches such as the Calibre 89.
复杂功能之一,提供各种传统日历显示,如日期、星期、月、年等。 百达翡丽表的日历分为:
- 简单日历: 透过视窗或借助指针显示每月1 至 31 号的日期数字。在小月(只有30天)和二月结束时,必须手动调节日期。
- 年历: 1996年获得专利的完整日历(星期、日期和月份)显示技术,每年只需在二月结束时手动调节一次。
- 万年历:考虑到月份的变化(包括闰年的月份),可显示至 2100 年(不能被 400 整除的下一个世纪年)。
- 长久万年历:考虑到日历中的所有变化,包括不能被 400 整除的世纪年份。这是现有最复杂的日历技术,增大某些怀表(如Calibre 89)的功能。
Caliber - 机芯
Originally synonymous with size or dimensions. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. Patek Philippe has 15 base calibres. They are used either as they are or to serve as a « base » for additional developments or functions. There are thus 38 different calibres for wristwatches and 6 for pocket watches in regular production within the Manufacture.原义是大小或尺寸,后来被制表师引申为机芯。百达翡丽有17种基础机芯,它们既可以作为一般机芯使用,也可以作为“基础”机芯,在其基础上增添新技术或新功能。因此,在制造商的常规生产中,腕表有38种机芯,而怀表有6种机芯。
Cam - 凸轮
A disc with a special profile on which a sprung lever rests.轮廓特殊的盘,支撑弹性扳手。
Cannon-pinion - 卡农小齿轮
In a movement, the pinion that controls the motion-work (the gear train that drives the hour, minute and seconds hands).在机芯中控制运动机件(驱动时针、分针和秒针的齿轮系)的小齿轮。
Carat - K(黄金)、克拉(宝石)
A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold.金制品的黄金纯度单位。纯金为24K。手表和珠宝工艺品使用18K或750金,即含金量为18/24或75%的合金。宝石的重量单位。1克拉等于0.2克。
Case - 表壳
The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back.表壳通常由三部分构成: 即表壳中心、表框和底盖。
Case middle - 表壳中心
The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement.表壳的中心部分,位于表框和底盖之间。用于容纳机芯。
Casing-ring - 表壳衬圈
Ring surrounding the movement and holding it inside the case.环绕机芯并将机芯固定在表壳内的衬圈。
Cathedral - 教堂音簧
See "gong".参见“gong - 音簧”的解释。
Celestial canopy - 天文图
Complication that provides a representation of the sky, as it may be observed at night. Also known as sky chart, it enables one to follow the positions of the stars and that of the moon and to visualise the various phases.显示天相的复杂功能,也称为天文星图。人们可以跟踪星星和月亮的位置,并目测各种月相。
CH - 计时腕表
Abbreviation for « Chronograph » in the Patek Philippe typology.百达翡丽表中“ Chronograph - 计时腕表”的缩写。
Chain bracelet - 链条状表链
A bracelet for which the links are produced one by one from a gold wire.通过金线一个接一个连接起来的表链。
Chamfering - 倒角打磨
又称切角,法语称为“anglage”。此工序中,部件表面和侧缘之间的锋利棱边由手工切割或锉平,形成光滑的45度曲线,然后由机械抛光。切角通常用于增加耐磨度或提升美感。
Champlevé - 雕刻珐琅、内填珐琅
Hand engraving technique. Champlevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel.一种手工雕刻工艺。使用扁平的雕刻刀挖空金属,形成小空腔以填充珐琅。
Chenier (or knuckle) - 铰链(或关节)
Small tube into which one inserts a pin to form a hinge.小管件,内部可插入销针,从而形成折叶。
CHR - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时
Abbreviation of “Split seconds chronograph” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Split seconds chronograph - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时”的缩写。
Chronograph - 计时腕表
Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. A classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totaliser. Some have additional counters. Be careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer!钟表的复杂功能之一,用于测量某一事件的持续时间。标准的计时腕表由计时或围绕表盘旋转的秒针以及另一支指针组成,用以累加计数器或加法器上的分钟数。有些计时腕表带有额外的计数器。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。
Chronometer - 精密计时器
A watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institue).Be careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph!高精度获得官方机构认证的钟表。在瑞士,由COSC(瑞士官方天文表测试组织)逐一授予等级证明书。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。
Circular graining - 圆形粒纹
因为加工后会获得类似一排小珍珠的效果,因此该工序在法语中又称“珍珠纹”(perlage)。这个步骤中,机芯主机板及连接的夹板会被刻上圆圈交错或珠粒形状的图案。打造该图案时,需将一个涂有金刚砂研磨膏的平头小木杆装在抛光机的转头上,然后极其轻柔地压向主机版,产生完美的流线条纹。
Circular satin brushing - 圆形缎面磨砂抛光
用于表壳的抛光工艺之一,制造出一种天鹅绒质感的深邃效果。
Circular satin finish - 圆形缎面处理
用于表壳的抛光工艺之一,制造出一种天鹅绒质感的深邃效果。
CITES - CITES公约
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. This agreement between nations is intended to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild plants and animals does not threaten the survival of the species to which they belong. Patek Philippe watch straps are made from the leather of farmed animals subject to the CITES.即《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》。此项国际公约旨在确保国际野生动植物样本贸易不会对这些野生动植物所属物种的生存造成威胁。受CITES公约的规限,百达翡丽表的表带均采用饲养动物的皮革制作。
CL - 天文图
Abbreviation for « Celestial canopy » (or sky chart) in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Celestial canopy (or sky chart) - 天文图(或天文星图)”的缩写。
Cloisonné - 景泰蓝
See “Enamel”.参见“Enamel - 珐琅”的解释。
Clous de Paris - 巴黎钉纹图案
See "Hobnail pattern".参见“Hobnail pattern - 平头钉图案”的解释。
CNC - 电脑数值控制
Acronym for Computerised Numerical Control.是“Computerised Numerical Control - 电脑数值控制”的缩写。
Column-wheel - 导柱轮
Central element of the split seconds chronograph mechanism which gives the various parts (operating-lever hook, hammer, coupling lever and brake) their appropriate positions.追针计时机件的主要元件,使不同部件(操作杆钩、锤、连动杆和制动器)处于各自适当的位置。
Comet's tail - 彗尾
Refers to a flaw on exterior parts: material slightly hollowed around a tiny burr.指外部组件的瑕疵:小毛边周围的轻微凹陷材料。
Consecutive - 连续
Relating to a sequence, a well ordered succession (as opposed to simultaneous).与序列有关,按顺序的连续性(与“同时”相对)。
Corrector - 校正器
Button integrated within the case middle, which is pressed using the setting stylus to adjust certain specific functions.结合在表壳中心的按钮。使用拨针按该按钮,可以调节若干特殊功能。
COSC - COSC瑞士官方时计测定局
Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute瑞士官方时计测定局(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)的缩写。
Counter - 计数器
In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second.在经典的计时腕表中,以分钟表示时间流逝的小表盘。此外,还有表示小时或几分之一秒的计数器。
Crown - 表冠
A button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. See: Winding crown.通常带有槽沟的按钮,用拇指与食指将其拉到不同位置,并向不同方向并旋转,一般用于设定时间或调校日期。机械表上的表冠(或上弦表冠)还可用于给机芯上弦。参见“上弦表冠” 。
Cut - 车工
Gemstone cut: an essential element in highlighting the stones. The proportions chosen determine three physical phenomena: internal reflection, diffraction or dispersion, and scintillation of fire. Professionals have established a scale for evaluation the quality of cuts. Patek Philippe uses only the best, referred to as "very good" and "excellent".宝石车工:突出宝石光华的重要工艺。所选择的比例决定三种物理现象——内部反射、衍射或散射以闪烁或光彩。专业人士已设立评估车工质量的等级。百达翡丽只会采用最好的——被评为“优良”和“杰出”的车工。
Cutting the teeth - 切割齿轮
Achieving a shape by cutting out on a Computerised Numerical Control machine or by stamping/pressing.这项操作须采用铣刀完成。铣刀可进行两项操作:旋转操作,切割齿轮和小齿轮;以及纵向操作(沿移动部件的中轴方向)。