With the debut of the Calatrava Ref. 7200/200R, Patek Philippe is enriching its current collection by introducing a new gemsetting technique. With the name Flamme® registered for the horological industry, it redoubles the fire of the diamonds and adds extra sparkle and lucidity to the precious stones. It addresses the demand among many women for a classic piece of inimitable finesse.
The bezel of the Calatrava 7200/200R in rose gold features 142 diamonds set in two staggered rows. Once the stones have been placed in their intended positions, the gemsetter manually sculpts a small prong for each one and then bends it over the diamond to secure it on one side from above. Then, with a sharp burin, he splits the gold between the diamonds. Pushed aside, the gold material forms small supports that secure the diamonds adjacent to the groove from below. Thanks to staggered apertures beneath the stones, the light can also shine through them from below, thus amplifying the inherent fire of the diamonds. Because the prongs are offset against each other as well, they create a texture on the bezel that resembles bobbin lace.