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1

10J - 10天动力储备

Abbreviation for « 10 days power reserve » in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“10 days power reserve - 10天动力储备”的缩写。

2

24H - 24小时表盘

Abbreviation for "24-hour dial", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“24-hour dial - 24 小时表盘”的缩写。

A

Amplitude - 摆幅

Measurement in degrees of the movement of a balance and spring assembly: amplitude is the angle between the position of equilibrium and its maximum elongation.测量摆轮游丝装置的摆动角度:摆幅即是游丝装置的平衡位置与最大距角之间的角度。

Analogue - 指针式时间显示

Refers to time display using hands.指采用指针来显示时间。

Aperture - 视窗、孔径

Dial opening revealing the indications provided on discs rotating under the dial.表盘上的开孔,可看见表盘下的转盘的显示信息。

Applique - 镶刻

Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to or riveted to the dial. At Patek Philippe, appliques are always in gold and are sometimes diamond-set.固定在表盘上的凸起数字或时间刻度。百达翡丽钟表的镶刻通常用金打造,有时亦会镶嵌钻石。

Appropriage - 抛磨修整

An activity carried out by the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmakers themselves perform certain finishing operations such as polishing steel parts or chamfering bridges.顶级复杂功能(Grand Complications)作坊从事的一项工作。制表师亲自进行一些修正操作,如磨光钢部件和斜切桥板等。

Aquanaut - Aquanaut系列

A collection inspired by the Nautilus, created in 1996. It is distinguished by the complexity of its case shape, equipped with a screw-down crown, framing a superbly finished black textured dial. Aquanaut watches are available in three sizes (small, medium and large) and in two versions (gold and steel), on a "Tropical" composite strap or metal bracelet.始创于1996年的腕表系列,灵感来自Nautilus系列。Aquanaut系列表以综合的表壳形状、旋入式表冠,精雕细琢的黑色纹理表盘为特色。该系列腕表分为大、中、小三种尺寸,并有金和不锈钢两种材质,表带则有“Tropical”合成带和金属链。

Arabic - 阿拉伯数字

Usual way of showing the numerals. Arabic numerals: 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.0. As opposed to Roman numerals: I, II,III...显示数字的常用方式,阿拉伯数字有1、2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、0,分别对应罗马数字I、II、III……

Arm - 臂杆

Elongated part linking certain parts of a mechanism within a movement (such as the arm of a wheel, for example). 连接机芯某些装置的狭长部件(如齿轮的臂杆等)。

Art Deco - 装饰艺术

An artistic movement stemming from the Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris in 1925, which asserts a taste for straight lines and the geometrical interpretation of nature's forms.一项源自1925年巴黎装饰艺术博览会(Decorative Arts Exhibition)的艺术运动,主张以直线与几何形状表达自然之美。

Attachment - 表耳、凸耳

See « Horns ».参见“Horns - 表耳”的解释。

B

Back - 底盖

The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sapphire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged dust cover type.

  • Screw-down back : the back and the case middle are respectively fitted with a screw thread and thus screwed to each other.
  • Snap-on back : the back is held on to the case middle by pressure.
  • Screw-on back the back is held on to the case middle by four screws.
  • Hinged dust cover : the sapphire crystal is held on to the case middle by pressure, and the dust cover is hinged to the case middle, enabling one to reveal the movement.
  • On Patek Philippe watches, the back may also be integrated with the case middle. On those kind of models, the watch is equipped with a movement with a "split stem".表壳下半部分,固定在表壳中心下面。 无论底盖是金属材质或是可展示机芯的蓝宝石水晶,均可采用旋入式、揿扣式螺丝固定或铰接式防尘表盖的结合方式。
  • 旋入式底盖:底盖和表壳中心通过螺纹接合,因此可以相互旋紧。
  • 揿扣式底盖:通过压力将底盖固定到表壳中心。
  • 螺丝底盖:通过四个螺钉将底盖固定到表壳中心。
  • 铰链式防尘盖:通过压力将蓝宝石水晶底盖固定到表壳中心,然后将防尘表盖铰接到表壳中心,可以打开来观察机芯。
百达翡丽钟表的底盖亦可以与表壳中心融为一起。 这类钟表的机芯都配有“拼合柄轴”。

Baguette - 方钻、长矩形宝石

A gemstone cut.一种宝石车工。

Balance roller - 摆轮轴

Disc-shaped escapement component. The balance roller receives the impulses from the pallets via its impulse-pin.盘状擒纵部件。摆轮滚轴通过冲击销来接收擒纵叉的冲击。

Balance and spring assembly - 摆轮和游丝装置

The regulating organ of a mechanical movement. The balance and spring assembly, composed of a balance and a balance-spring, oscillates under the impetus of the escapement. In Patek Philippe watches, balance and spring assemblies are generally of the Gynomax type.机械机芯的调校机构。摆轮游丝装置由摆轮和游丝构成,在擒纵机构的推动下摆动。百达翡丽钟表的摆轮游丝装置通常为Gyromax类型。

Balance-cock - 摆轮夹板

Synonymous with a balance-bridge. The balance-cock has a special shape, from which it gets its name, which reveals the balance.同摆轮桥板。摆轮夹板的形状特殊,由其英文名称可知,那是与摆轮有关的部分。

Balance-spring - 摆轮游丝、游丝

Small spring coiled into a spiral, an integral part of the balance and spring assembly.卷成盘状的小弹簧,是摆轮游丝装置的组成部分。

Ball-bearing mechanism - 滚珠轴承机件

Mechanical device enabling two parts to roll over each other instead of sliding.可使两个部件互相滚动而非互相滑动的机械装置。

Barrel - 发条鼓、发条匣

The part of a mechanical movement that enables the accumulation of energy. The barrel is composed of a wheel and drum (cylindrical case) with a cover. It houses the mainspring which coils around the barrel arbor under the impetus of the ratchet wheel.机械机芯的部件之一,可以积累动力。发条鼓由齿轮和鼓形带盖的圆筒(条鼓轮)构成。发条鼓内装着主发条,在大钢轮的推动力下缠绕在条轴上。

Barrel arbor - 条轴

The stem around which the mainspring coils.主发条缠绕的轴心。

Barrel drum - 条鼓轮

The lateral wall of the barrel, fitted with a hook to receive the mainspring. 发条鼓的侧壁,装有一个弯钩以固定主发条。

Base plate - 底板

Central plate of the movement, made in brass or nickel silver, on which the movement components are assembled. The upper side of the base plate is the side facing the case back which receives the movement organs. The under side of the base plate is the side facing the dial.机芯的中央板,通常为黄铜或镍银制成,机芯组件在此底板上组装。底板的上面对着表壳底盖,用于安装机芯机件,而底板的下面则对着表盘。

Baton - 巴顿式指针

Refers to hour markers or hands featuring the elongated shape of a baton.指条形时间刻度或指针。

Bauhaus - 包豪斯

A German school of architecture and applied arts, renowned for having initiated the artistic movement which holds that function determines form. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius in Weimar.德国建筑与应用艺术学院,以发动艺术运动而闻名。他们的观点是功能决定形式。包豪斯学院于1919年由格罗皮乌斯在德国魏玛创建。

Benzine - 苯精、轻质汽油

A hydrocarbon with solvent properties.具有溶解特性的碳氢化合物。

Bezel - 表框

Upper part of the case which holds the glass. It is fixed above the case middle.表壳上半部分,用于固定表镜。安装在表壳中心之上。

Bienfacture - 优质

A Swiss word with French roots (basically meaning "to make well") which refers to the good quality of a piece of work or an object.来源于法语的瑞士语单词(大意为“做得很好”),指一件高质量的作品或物品。

Binocular magnifying glass - 双筒放大镜

Instrument de grossissement optique qui comporte deux oculaires ou lentilles et permet de regarder avec les deux yeux en même temps.一个有双目镜的光学放大镜,使人可以同时用双眼观察。

Blue - 蓝油

A protective varnish used to coat all parts of the case and metal bracelet after polishing.保护性清漆,用于涂敷所有磨光后的表壳部件和金属表链。

Bracket - 托架

A kind of support or rest.一种支撑物或支架。

Brass - 黄铜

Alloy of copper and zinc. 铜锌合金。

Breguet - 宝玑

  • Abraham-Louis Breguet: Swiss watchmaker established in Paris (1747-1823), whose inventions include the tourbillon escapement.
  • Breguet numerals: numerals designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain dials.
  • Breguet hands: hollowed-tip hands designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain watch models.
  • 宝玑: 巴黎的瑞士钟表大师(1747年 - 1823年),他的发明包括陀飞轮擒纵机构。
  • 宝玑式数字:由宝玑设计的数字,百达翡丽在某些表盘上采用这种数字。
  • 宝玑式指针:由宝玑设计的尖端镂空指针,百达翡丽钟表在某些型号上采用这种指针。

Bridge - 桥板

Movement part fixed to the base plate, in which the pivot of mobile parts turn. Generally speaking, bridges are named after the mobile parts they carry. Among the easiest to recognise is the balance-cock.固定在底板上的机芯部件,移动部件的枢轴在其中转动。 一般而言,桥板根据它所承载的移动部件来命名,其中最容易识别的桥板就是摆轮夹板。

Brilliant - 多面型

The most widely used cut for diamonds. It comprises 57 facets, meaning 1 table surrounded with 32 facets for the crown and 24 for the culet.钻石最常见的车工,共有 57 个琢面,即冠部的一个台面有32个琢面围绕,钻底则有24个琢面。

Burin - 雕刻刀、錾刀

Engraver's chisel.雕刻师的工具。

Byzantine - 拜占庭风格

Style of chain bracelet, made from gold threads. This type of bracelet is found on the Golden Ellipse 4931/2 watch.由金线制成的表链样式。Golden Ellipse 编号 4931/2腕表就采用这种表链。

Beveling——切角

参见“chamfering”倒角。

Blank——半成品

表盘底板雏形。

C

C - 日历

Abbreviation for “calendar” = simple date = simple calendar in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“calendar - 日历”的缩写 = 简单日期 = 简单日历。

Cabled - 缆线式指针

Refers to a hand shaped like a cable.形状如缆线的指针。

Calatrava - Calatrava系列

An emblematic and quintessentially classic Patek Philippe collection since 1932. The lines of this timeless watch with a round case for men and ladies, are directly inspired by the Bauhaus artistic movement. Featuring a bezel that may be flat, round, gem-set or adorned with a hobnail pattern, the watch itself may be ultra-thin or fitted with a cover protecting the sapphire case back.百达翡丽自1932 年一直沿用的经典系列表。这一经久不衰的男/女手表系列均有圆形表壳,设计灵感直接来自包豪斯艺术运动。表框既可为扁平、圆形、镶有宝石,也可饰以平头钉图案,表型即可为超薄型,又可配有表盖以保护蓝宝石底盖。

Calendar - 日历

A complication that provides the various indications of the conventional calendar such as the date, the date, the week, the month and the year. Patek Philippe watches include:

  • Simple calendars: they give the date through an aperture or by means of a hand, indicating the number of the day from 1 to 31 within the month. They must be manually adjusted at the end of 30-day months and at the end of February.
  • Annual calendar: a complete calendar (day, date and month), patented in 1996, which requires a single manual adjustment each year, at the end of February.
  • Perpetual calendars, which take account of monthly variations, including those of leap years, until the year 2100 (the next century year not divisible by 400).
  • The secular perpetual calendar, which takes account of all the variables in our calendar, including that of century years not divisible by 400. This is the most sophisticated calendar in existence. It powers certain pocket watches such as the Calibre 89.
  • 复杂功能之一,提供各种传统日历显示,如日期、星期、月、年等。 百达翡丽表的日历分为:
  • 简单日历: 透过视窗或借助指针显示每月1 至 31 号的日期数字。在小月(只有30天)和二月结束时,必须手动调节日期。
  • 年历: 1996年获得专利的完整日历(星期、日期和月份)显示技术,每年只需在二月结束时手动调节一次。
  • 万年历:考虑到月份的变化(包括闰年的月份),可显示至 2100 年(不能被 400 整除的下一个世纪年)。
  • 长久万年历:考虑到日历中的所有变化,包括不能被 400 整除的世纪年份。这是现有最复杂的日历技术,增大某些怀表(如Calibre 89)的功能。

机芯

Originally synonymous with size or dimensions. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. Patek Philippe has 15 base calibres. They are used either as they are or to serve as a « base » for additional developments or functions. There are thus 38 different calibres for wristwatches and 6 for pocket watches in regular production within the Manufacture.原义是大小或尺寸,后来被制表师引申为机芯。百达翡丽有17种基础机芯,它们既可以作为一般机芯使用,也可以作为“基础”机芯,在其基础上增添新技术或新功能。因此,在制造商的常规生产中,腕表有38种机芯,而怀表有6种机芯。

Cannon-pinion - 卡农小齿轮

In a movement, the pinion that controls the motion-work (the gear train that drives the hour, minute and seconds hands).在机芯中控制运动机件(驱动时针、分针和秒针的齿轮系)的小齿轮。

Cam - 凸轮

A disc with a special profile on which a sprung lever rests.轮廓特殊的盘,支撑弹性扳手。

Carat - K(黄金)、克拉(宝石)

A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold.金制品的黄金纯度单位。纯金为24K。手表和珠宝工艺品使用18K或750金,即含金量为18/24或75%的合金。宝石的重量单位。1克拉等于0.2克。

Case - 表壳

The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back.表壳通常由三部分构成: 即表壳中心、表框和底盖。

Case middle - 表壳中心

The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement.表壳的中心部分,位于表框和底盖之间。用于容纳机芯。

Cathedral - 教堂音簧

See "gong".参见“gong - 音簧”的解释。

Casing-ring - 表壳衬圈

Ring surrounding the movement and holding it inside the case.环绕机芯并将机芯固定在表壳内的衬圈。

Celestial canopy - 天文图

Complication that provides a representation of the sky, as it may be observed at night. Also known as sky chart, it enables one to follow the positions of the stars and that of the moon and to visualise the various phases.显示天相的复杂功能,也称为天文星图。人们可以跟踪星星和月亮的位置,并目测各种月相。

CH - 计时腕表

Abbreviation for « Chronograph » in the Patek Philippe typology.百达翡丽表中“ Chronograph - 计时腕表”的缩写。

Chain bracelet - 链条状表链

A bracelet for which the links are produced one by one from a gold wire.通过金线一个接一个连接起来的表链。

Chamfering——倒角打磨

又称切角,法语称为“anglage”。此工序中,部件表面和侧缘之间的锋利棱边由手工切割或锉平,形成光滑的45度曲线,然后由机械抛光。切角通常用于增加耐磨度或提升美感。

Champlevé - 雕刻珐琅、内填珐琅

Hand engraving technique. Champlevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel.一种手工雕刻工艺。使用扁平的雕刻刀挖空金属,形成小空腔以填充珐琅。

Chenier (or knuckle) - 铰链(或关节)

Small tube into which one inserts a pin to form a hinge.小管件,内部可插入销针,从而形成折叶。

CHR - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时

Abbreviation of “Split seconds chronograph” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Split seconds chronograph - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时”的缩写。

Chronograph - 计时腕表

Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. A classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totaliser. Some have additional counters. Be careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer!钟表的复杂功能之一,用于测量某一事件的持续时间。标准的计时腕表由计时或围绕表盘旋转的秒针以及另一支指针组成,用以累加计数器或加法器上的分钟数。有些计时腕表带有额外的计数器。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。

Chronometer - 精密计时器

A watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institue).Be careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph!高精度获得官方机构认证的钟表。在瑞士,由COSC(瑞士官方天文表测试组织)逐一授予等级证明书。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。

Circular graining——圆形粒纹

因为加工后会获得类似一排小珍珠的效果,因此该工序在法语中又称“珍珠纹”(perlage)。这个步骤中,机芯主机板及连接的夹板会被刻上圆圈交错或珠粒形状的图案。打造该图案时,需将一个涂有金刚砂研磨膏的平头小木杆装在抛光机的转头上,然后极其轻柔地压向主机版,产生完美的流线条纹。

Circular satin finish——圆形缎面处理

用于表壳的抛光工艺之一,制造出一种天鹅绒质感的深邃效果。

CITES - CITES公约

Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. This agreement between nations is intended to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild plants and animals does not threaten the survival of the species to which they belong. Patek Philippe watch straps are made from the leather of farmed animals subject to the CITES.即《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》。此项国际公约旨在确保国际野生动植物样本贸易不会对这些野生动植物所属物种的生存造成威胁。受CITES公约的规限,百达翡丽表的表带均采用饲养动物的皮革制作。

CL - 天文图

Abbreviation for « Celestial canopy » (or sky chart) in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Celestial canopy (or sky chart) - 天文图(或天文星图)”的缩写。

Cloisonné - 景泰蓝

See “Enamel”.参见“Enamel - 珐琅”的解释。

Clous de Paris - 巴黎钉纹图案

See "Hobnail pattern".参见“Hobnail pattern - 平头钉图案”的解释。

CNC - 电脑数值控制

Acronym for Computerised Numerical Control.是“Computerised Numerical Control - 电脑数值控制”的缩写。

Column-wheel - 导柱轮

Central element of the split seconds chronograph mechanism which gives the various parts (operating-lever hook, hammer, coupling lever and brake) their appropriate positions.追针计时机件的主要元件,使不同部件(操作杆钩、锤、连动杆和制动器)处于各自适当的位置。

Comet's tail - 彗尾

Refers to a flaw on exterior parts: material slightly hollowed around a tiny burr.指外部组件的瑕疵:小毛边周围的轻微凹陷材料。

Corrector - 校正器

Button integrated within the case middle, which is pressed using the setting stylus to adjust certain specific functions.结合在表壳中心的按钮。使用拨针按该按钮,可以调节若干特殊功能。

Consecutive - 连续

Relating to a sequence, a well ordered succession (as opposed to simultaneous).与序列有关,按顺序的连续性(与“同时”相对)。

COSC - COSC瑞士官方时计测定局

Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute瑞士官方时计测定局(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)的缩写。

Counter - 计数器

In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second.在经典的计时腕表中,以分钟表示时间流逝的小表盘。此外,还有表示小时或几分之一秒的计数器。

Crown - 表冠

A button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. See: Winding crown.通常带有槽沟的按钮,用拇指与食指将其拉到不同位置,并向不同方向并旋转,一般用于设定时间或调校日期。机械表上的表冠(或上弦表冠)还可用于给机芯上弦。参见“上弦表冠” 。

Cut - 车工

Gemstone cut: an essential element in highlighting the stones. The proportions chosen determine three physical phenomena: internal reflection, diffraction or dispersion, and scintillation of fire. Professionals have established a scale for evaluation the quality of cuts. Patek Philippe uses only the best, referred to as "very good" and "excellent".宝石车工:突出宝石光华的重要工艺。所选择的比例决定三种物理现象——内部反射、衍射或散射以闪烁或光彩。专业人士已设立评估车工质量的等级。百达翡丽只会采用最好的——被评为“优良”和“杰出”的车工。

Cutting the teeth - 切割齿轮

Achieving a shape by cutting out on a Computerised Numerical Control machine or by stamping/pressing.这项操作须采用铣刀完成。铣刀可进行两项操作:旋转操作,切割齿轮和小齿轮;以及纵向操作(沿移动部件的中轴方向)。

Circular satin brushing——圆形缎面磨砂抛光

用于表壳的抛光工艺之一,制造出一种天鹅绒质感的深邃效果。

D

Date of Easter - 复活节日期

Complication that displays the date of Easter according to this rule: the first Sunday after the full moon which follows the spring equinox. The patented mechanism is housed within the Calibre 89 watch.根据以下规则显示复活节日期的复杂功能:春分后满月之后的第一个星期日。Calibre 89时计内装有这项专利机件。

Dauphine - 匕首形指针

Refers to hands with an elongated triangular shape.指长三角形指针。

Diamond - 钻石

Precious stone: pure crystallised carbon, generally colourless, occasionally pink, yellow or blue in colour. A diamond, which is exceptionally hard, scratches all other bodies, but can only be scratched by itself. Patek Philippe uses the highest quality of diamonds, determined by the combination of what are known as the “4 Cs”: Colour, Clarity (purity), Cut (shape) and Carat (weight). On the colour grading scale established by diamond professionals, Top Wesselton internally flawless diamonds corresponds to diamonds rated F (rare white), loupe-clean when enlarged 10 times.一种宝石:纯结晶石墨,通常无色,偶尔呈粉红色、黄色或蓝色。钻石异常坚硬,可以刮伤其它所有物体,但只被其自身刮伤。百达翡丽采用最优质的钻石,其判定标准即所谓的“4C”体系:颜色、透明度(净度)、车工(形状)和克拉(重量)。根据钻石专家设立的颜色分级标度,Top Wesselton级完美钻石为F级(极白+)或G级(极白)钻石,即使放大十倍也看不出任何瑕疵。

Dial - 表盘

Plate with a metal base, visible through a glass, which carries certain indications such as the hours, minutes and seconds. On Patek Philippe watches, dials are generally in brass. The exceptions are those that are gold coloured, sun burst blue and models paved with precious stones, which are made from solid gold plates. Particular care is devoted to their finish. They may be galvanised, embossed, guilloché, painted, metallic, opaline-white, gem-set or genuine enamel.有金属底座的板、透过表镜可见的板面,带有小时、分钟和秒钟的时间刻度。百达翡丽的表盘一般以黄铜制成,例外的有金色、放射状蓝色表盘以及镶有宝石的表盘,全由金制成。表盘的精饰花费大量心思,可能经过电镀、带有压花、带有交错格状饰纹、上过漆、带金属色调、呈乳光色、嵌有宝石或是涂上珐琅等。

Die - 冲模、硬模、模具

Steel plate representing the hollowed reproduction of a part to be cut out or stamped. The material placed on the die takes the shape by being struck with a punch.一种中空的钢板,用于冲切或冲压的部件。将材料放入冲模中,用冲压机压制成所需的形状。

Digital - 数字显示

In watchmaking, refers to display by means of numbers with no hands.就制表业而言,指使用数字而非指针的方式来显示时间。

Disc - 盘

Flat, thin disc carrying the indications which are successively displayed through an aperture as the disc rotates under the dial.带有标记的平薄圆片,当盘在表盘下面转动时,可以通过视窗连续显示上面的标记。

Display - 显示(时间)

Stage no.6 in the working of any watch: in either a mechanical watch or a quartz watch, the display is shown by hands or through apertures, driven by a gear train. 钟表运作的第6阶段:无论是机械表还是石英表,是依靠指针显示还是视窗显示,均由齿轮系驱动。

Divine proportion - 神圣比例

A mathematical ratio of homogenous size symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes to (1/1.6180). Also known as "the golden section”, it forms the basis of the design of the Golden Ellipse.一个均衡尺寸的精确比例,可以使外观看起来达到完美的平衡(1/1.6181)。也被称作“黄金分割率”,它是Golden Ellipse系列设计的基础。

Drilling - 钻孔

Penetrating, passing through. For exemple, the drilling of pivot-holes.穿透、穿过。

Drilling for stone setting - 为镶嵌宝石钻孔

Preparation for gem-setting by forming the holes that will accommodate the stones. This operation is a machining operation.为宝石镶嵌预打的小孔,可以容纳宝石。这是一道机器加工工序。

Dual time zone - 两地时区

See “Time zones”. 参见“Time zones - 时区”的解释。

Décalque——转印

又称移印或板印,这种印刷工艺可将二维图案转移到任何二维或三维物体上(除此之外较难处理)。在钟表制造过程中,先将一块油墨硅胶雕板精心放置于未经处理的表盘上方;降低硅胶板,将字母或数字印在表盘表面,待晾干之后再进行另一次转印。

E

E - 电子

Abbreviation of “Electronic” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Electronic - 电子”的缩写。

Easter - 复活节

See "Date of Easter".参见“ Date of Easter - 复活节日期”的解释。

Electrolysis - 电解、电解作用

Chemical decomposition achieved by the action of an electric current. Certain metals are electrolysed in order to apply them on others in fine layers.通过电流的作用所产生的化学分解。为了能覆盖在其它金属薄层上,某些金属需要进行电解。

Enamel - 珐琅

Translucent substance that takes on various colours by adding metallic oxides. When fired in the furnace, it adheres to metal and acquires the consistency of glass. It may be applied in a single colour on certain dials. Figurative painting is also used to create decorative motifs. On Patek Philippe watches, these decorative motifs are generally created using two techniques:

  • Miniature enamel painting: the reproduction of paintings in miniature, generally on the cases of pocket watches. Small touches and successive layers are applied to a white enamel base and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C. A layer of transparent enamel is then applied to perfect this work. This finish is called "flux".
  • Cloisonné enamel: this technique, generally used for table clocks, consists of creating cavities marked out by gold wires, in which the enamels are applied in layers and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C.
  • 一种半透明的物质,可加入不同的金属氧化物而呈现不同的颜色。经过在熔炉中燃烧,可以粘贴在金属上,具有玻璃的一致性。在某些表盘上可能只使用单一的颜色,具象绘画还可作为装饰图案。在百达翡丽钟表中,通常采用两种手法来制作此类装饰图案:
  • 搪瓷精绘:制作微型绘画,一般用于怀表表壳。在白色珐琅底座上涂上少量多层珐琅,并用850°C的炉火连续烘烤。然后,涂上一层透明的珐琅润色。这种透明的物质称为“透明珐琅”。
  • 景泰蓝、嵌丝珐琅:这一工艺通常用于台式钟表。用金丝勾勒出凹穴,然后用一层一层的珐琅填充,并用850°C的炉火连续烘烤。

Energy distribution - 动力发散

  • In a mechanical watch, the energy is distributed progressively by a step-by-step escapement, consisting of pallets and an escape wheel with a special profile.
  • In a quartz watch, the energy is distributed by a stepping motor.
  • 在机械表中,动力由步进式擒纵机构(由擒纵叉和一个形状特殊的擒纵轮)逐步发散。
  • 在石英表中,动力经步进马达发散。

Energy production - 动力产生

Stage no. 1 in the working of any watch:

  • In a mechanical watch, this implies manual or automatic winding.
  • In a quartz watch, energy is produced by a battery.
  • 钟表运作的第1阶段:
  • 在机械表中,是用手动或自动上弦。
  • 在石英表中,动力由电池产生。

Embossing - 压纹、压花

Stamping a motif in metal with imprints embossed using a press.使用冲压机的凸出印刻在金属上冲压出图案。

Emerald - 翡翠、纯绿柱石;翡翠式切割、长方形

Green coloured gemstone, a variety of beryl. Most widely used gemstone cut for emeralds.绿色宝石,一种绿柱石。切割翡翠的最常用车工。

Emery paper - 砂纸、金刚砂纸

Abrasive mixture coated on paper. Emery paper is used in particular for polishing, smoothing down and creating a circular satin finish.涂在纸上的研磨混合剂。砂纸多用于抛光、打磨和制造旋转式打圈磨光效果。

Energy transmission and division of time - 动力传递及时间分割

Stage no. 3 in the working of any watch: in both mechanical and quartz watches, the energy is transmitted by a gear train which simultaneously divides up time. In the former case, it is powered by the mainspring; and in the second, by a stepping motor. 钟表运作的第3阶段:在机械表和石英表中,齿轮系传递动力的同时分割时间。机械表由主发条驱动,而石英表由步进马达驱动。

Engraving——雕刻工艺

该工序为表壳和表盘刻上精美悦目的形状和图案,极具创造力。艺术家先用铅笔绘出设计草图,然后用雕刻刀凿刻细线,或用錾刀雕刻更粗的深纹,将图案在金属表面重现。雕刻师需佩戴双筒显微镜,方可在狭小的表面作业。

EQ - 天文时差

Abbreviation of "Equation of time" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Equation of time - 天文时差”的缩写。

Equation of time - 天文时差

Complication which indicates the difference between conventional time (mean time) and the time determined by the position of the sun (real time). This difference ranges between - 16 and + 14 minutes, depending on the day of the year.显示常规时间(平均时间)与太阳位置决定的时间(实际时间)之间差异的一项复杂功能。差异范围介乎-16至+14分钟之间,取决于具体某一天。

Equinox - 昼夜平分点、二分点

The date when the duration of the day is equal to that of the night. There are two equinoxes per year which correspond to the start of spring and that of autumn.白昼与黑夜等长的日子。一年有两个昼夜平分点,分别标志着春季和秋季的开始。

Escapement - 擒纵机构、擒纵机、摆轮、司行轮

The organ of a mechanical movement that enables distribution of energy step by step (and not all at once). The escapement, composed of a wheel with a special shape (curved teeth) and pallets, maintains the oscillations of the regulating organ, the balance and spring assembly.机械机芯的机件,帮助动力逐步发散(而非一次全部发散)。擒纵机构由一个形状特别(曲齿)的齿轮和擒纵叉组成,用于维持调校机构、摆轮和游丝装置的振动。

Etoquiaux - 凸边

Banking of a lever escapement when it is cut out of the plate and is not in the form of pins (solid banking). This term is specific to Geneva watchmaking.由机板上切割出瓦式擒纵器时造成的凸边,但与插销不同(实心凸边)。这是日内瓦制表上的专业用语。

Exterior - 外部组件

Set of external parts of a watch: case, dial, hands, glass, crown, strap/bracelet, etc. (to the exclusion of movement components).钟表的整套外部组件:表壳、表盘、指针、表镜、表冠/表链等(不包括机芯零件)。

Electroplating——电镀

参见galvanization”镀锌。

Emerizing——金刚砂起绒抛光

用于加工金属表壳和表链的一道工艺,以制造出光滑耀眼的表面,并去除瑕疵。该工序要将零件在砂纸条上划8字进行打磨,产生柔和的精饰效果。因为会用到磨砂材料与油、水混合而制成的研磨浆,此工序又被称为研磨。

Enameling——珐琅工艺

将彩色玻璃或珐琅颜料研磨成滑石粉状的粉末,与水或油混合,再将磨好的珐琅填料准确地涂在备好的金属表面。待其风干后,涂好珐琅彩的表面会送入窑炉中以850°C的高温煅烧,玻璃粉末或珐琅颜料会熔化,形成全新的坚固表面,并和金属底座熔为一体。

F

Faceted - 多琢面

Having facets, such as on gemstones.具有多个琢面,比如宝石的多个琢面。

Fancy diamond - 彩色钻石

Coloured diamond.有颜色的钻石。

Fine working——精细加工

表壳手工精饰的一部分。这个阶段会修整或磨平多余的金属,焊接表耳,为有防尘盖的表壳加装铰链,进行开合调试,并为抛光处理做准备。

Finishing - 最后加工

Refers to the work of a company that buys watch components from outside and only handles assembly, adjustment, fitting the hands and casing up. One must distinguish between a finishing workshop as opposed to a Munufacture.指加工企业的工作,这类企业从外部购买钟表组件,只是负责进行装配、调校、安装指针及装壳。注意最后加工作坊与制造商的区别。

Finishing operations - 精加工工序

At Patek Philippe, this term encompasses a set of finishing operations performed by hand on watch parts, in keeping with the Geneva tradition. Most of the finishing operations which contribute high value added, are mandatory to obtain the Geneva Seal.在百达翡丽,该词指遵照日内瓦传统,在钟表零件上以手工进行的一套精加工工序。大部份创造高附加价值的精加工工序都是取得“日内瓦优质”印记的必需步骤。

Flux - 透明珐琅

See "Enamel".参见“珐琅”的解释。

Fork - 叉、叉头、分叉

Tip of the pallets which alternately pushes the impulse-pin placed under the balance and spring assembly so as to maintain its oscillations.擒纵叉的末端,交替推动位于摆轮游丝装置下面的冲击销,以维持振幅。

Fold-over clasp - 折叠扣

A clasp that opens by folding over, without being detached from the two parts of the bracelet.不需与表链两段分离,只要拉开折位便可开启的扣子。

Frequency - 频率

Number of oscillations per second. Frequency is expressed in Hertz (Hz). 1 hertz = 1 oscillation = 2 vibrations per second.The frequency of the balance and spring assembly of mechanical watches is no higher than 5 Hertz (5 oscillations/sec.).The frequency of quartz is 32,000 Hertz (32,000 oscillations/second).每秒钟摆动的次数。频率以赫兹(Hz)计量。1赫兹 = 每秒1次摆动 = 每秒2次振动。

  • 机械表的摆轮游丝装置的频率不高于5赫兹(5次摆动/秒)。
  • 石英频率为32,000 赫兹(32,000次摆动/秒)。

FUS - 时区

Abbreviation for time zone in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“time zone - 时区”的缩写。

Faceting——琢面

为表盘上的立体字块打造一些切面。利用配有锋利金刚钻工具的机器来切割棒状立体时标,令其更清晰易读。

Fitting——装配

装配师组装机芯零件和组成表壳及表链的零件,包括表壳、表圈、表壳底盖、蓝宝石水晶透盖、接头和上弦表冠。所有操作要在绝对洁净的环境下进行。每枚时计均会在这个环节接受从防水到设计的全方位严苛品质测试。

G

Galvanised/Galvanic plating - 电镀

Technique for plating metal by electrolysis. For example, the bridges and plates are protected from oxidation by a fine layer of rhodium.通过电解作用镀敷金属的工艺方法。例如,通过电镀一层薄铑来防止桥板和主机板氧化。

Gearing - 传动装置、齿轮装置、齿轮传动

Gear train composed of wheels and toothed pinions.由齿轮和小齿轮组成的齿轮系。

Gear-train - 齿轮系、传动机构

Set of wheels driven in an interdependent movement. The gear-train generally called the going train is the one that transmits energy and divides up time. It comprises the hour wheel, the minute wheel and the seconds wheel.Variable sets of wheel result in reduction and in different speeds of rotation.在机芯内受驱动的一套齿轮,通常被称为运转轮系的齿轮系,用于传送动力和分割时间,由时针轮、分针轮和秒针轮组成。不同的齿轮组和可产生减速和变速的效果。

  • 匀速齿轮系:维持旋转速度。
  • 加速齿轮系:每个齿轮的转速较前者为快。
  • 减速齿轮系:每个齿轮的转速较前者为慢。

Gemmologist - 宝石专家

Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, scientifically called "gems".研究优质石和珍贵石头(学名称为“宝石”)的专家。

Gem-setter - 镶石工匠

Craftsman who sets fine stones or precious stones.镶嵌优质宝石或珍贵石头的工匠。

Gemsetting——宝石镶嵌

在百达翡丽,钻石、红宝石、蓝宝石或祖母绿等珍贵宝石历来以传统的手工方式镶嵌,绝不使用粘合剂。通过小心翼翼地折合宝石周围的金属,确保镶嵌绝对稳固。为呈现宝石最耀眼的魅力,镶嵌方式极为讲究(每一排宝石必须保持水平、朝向统一且高度一致)。

Geneva stripes - 日内瓦条纹

Famous wavelike decorative pattern created on the bridges and oscillating weights of Patek Philippe watches. The tool required is crafted from boxwood by the craftsman himself, coated in abrasive paste and then pressed manually in order to remove an extremely small amount of material.百达翡丽钟表的桥板和摆动锤上的著名波浪形装饰图案。所需工具由工匠采用黄杨木亲手制作,并涂上研磨膏,然后用手按压以去除极少量的材料。

Glass - 表镜

Thin transparent plate through which one reads off the time, and which protects the dial. A glass may also be fitted on the case back to reveal the movement. The glasses used for Patek Philippe watches are always in scratch-resistant sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sapphire crystals.薄而透明的板面,透过它可以读取时间,同时起到保护表盘的作用。表镜也可装在底盖上以显露机芯。百达翡丽钟表采用的表镜均为防刮蓝宝石材质,因此也可称为蓝宝石水晶。

Gold-plating - 镀金

Coating with a thin film of gold.镀上一层薄薄的黄金。

Golden Ellipse 系列

Collection characterised by an elliptical case, inspired by the golden section. This "divine proportion" is not a measurement, but a mathematical ratio of homogenous size corresponding to 1/1.6181 and symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes. Golden Ellipse watches were created in 1968 for men, and ladies' versions were subsequently introduced.该系列以其椭圆形表壳著称,设计的灵感来自黄金分割。这一“神圣比例”并非一种度量,而是一个符合1/1.6180比例的数学比率,象征着完美平衡的形态。Golden Ellipse系列男装表于1968年问世,随后推出女装表。

Gondolo - Gondolo系列

  • Derived from the name of Gondolo & Labourio, the Brazilian company that was a client of Patek Philippe between 1902 and 1930.
  • The collection in tribute to the house of Gondolo & Lanbourio. Launched in 1993, these watches for men and ladies are rectangular, square or cushion shaped. Inspired by the Art Deco movement characterised by perspective and pure lines, they stem from a desire to reproduce shaped watches that Patek Philippe has designed in the past.
  • 该系列名称源自百达翡丽1902年至1930年间的一位客户——巴西公司Gondolo & Labourio。
  • 为向Gondolo & Labourio公司致敬,于1993 年推出该系列,男装表和女装表均有矩形、方形和垫形等形状。受以透视法和纯线条为特色的装饰艺术运动影响,该系列的造型和百达翡丽过去的设计如出一辙。

Gong - 音簧

Striking mechanism part:

  • Generally speaking, gongs are circular steel coils, fixed at one end and which progressively surround the minute repeater movement. When struck by hammers, they vibrate and produce sounds.
  • Those that wrap almost twice around the mechanism are called "Cathedral" gongs. This enhances both the quality and duration of their sound.
  • 打钟机构部件:
  • 一般来讲,音簧为圆形钢线圈,一端固定且渐进环绕三问机芯。当被锤敲击时,音簧产生振动从而发生声音。
  • 环绕机械装置几乎两圈的音簧称为“大教堂”音簧,声音品质和持续时间均得到提升。

Grande Sonnerie - 大报时

See "Striking mechanism"。参见“Striking mechanism - 报时机构、报时装置"的解释。

Graver - 雕刻刀

A pointed tool for engraving.用于雕刻的尖头工具。

Grinding-wheel - 砂轮

A disc used for polishing, coated with an abrasive substance.用于抛光的盘,外层涂有研磨材料。

Guilloché work——雕饰纹工艺

又称“机镂雕刻”。该雕刻工序常用于表壳、表链、表盘和表圈,有时还用于装饰机芯部件,需在车床上完成。百达翡丽的许多车床都是历史悠久的手工操作机器。该雕刻工序能制造出交错的精细几何图案,需要灵巧的手艺和精准的眼力,而正是手工操作赋予这种图案独特的美感。雕饰纹工艺常见于怀表的防尘盖上,Calatrava系列的巴黎钉纹表圈也带有雕饰纹,浅浅的条纹交错出一个个精巧的锥形。

Gyromax - Gyromax专利摆轮

A system of adjusting the balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe in 1949 and 1951. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, which equips the company's mechanical movements, replaces the traditional index-assembly or regular-assembly system. The adjustment depends on the direction of the asymmetrical inertia-blocks placed on the balance-ring, enabling one to modiy a watch which is gaining or losing time.用于调校摆轮游丝装置的系统,百达翡丽于1949年和1951年获得有关专利。本公司的机械机芯装有Gyromax专利摆轮游丝装置,取代了传统的指针装置和调校器装置系统。调校通过安置在摆轮环上的不对称惯性快的方向进行,可以调校走得快或走得慢的腕表。

Galvanization——电镀

此工序又称为镀锌,通过为金属涂上保护涂层以防锈蚀,亦有助于避免材质出现问题(湿气或海洋性气候会逐渐腐蚀材质),保证部件更长期完美运行。电镀工艺借助电化学方法在一种金属表面镀上另一层金属。例如夹板和主机板会镀铑。此外,电镀还能用来改变表盘的颜色。

Geneva stripes——日内瓦条纹

又称为Côtes de Genève,是一种浅刻在机芯部件(主机板、夹板或自动盘)金属表面的装饰性宽直条纹。在百达翡丽,工匠会为木质机械工具涂上研磨膏,然后重复向下压部件表面,并在此过程中慢慢将轮盘推离工作台,移除表面的少量金属,创造出均匀而立体的波浪纹。

H

Hair - 丝状指针

Refers to a hand that looks somewhat like a hair.看起来有些像头发丝的指针。

Hammer - 锤、音锤

A component in striking watches: Hammers are small levers with a weight at one end which strike gongs to produce sounds.报时钟表的一个组件:音锤是一端较重的小型杠杆,用于敲击音簧产生声音。

Hand - 指针

Metal part which points to various indications on the dial. At Patek Philippe, it may take a variety of shapes and forms, including dauphine, Breguet, leaf, baton, hair, pear, cabled or Louis XV.在表盘上指向不同刻度的金属部件。百达翡丽的指针形状和样式多种多样,包括匕首式、宝玑式、叶片式、巴顿式、丝状、梨形、缆线式或路易十五式。

Hardened - 硬化的

Refers to the steel parts used in movements: See "Hardening".指机芯所用的钢部件:参阅“Hardening - 硬化”。

Hardening - 硬化

Modification of the molecular structure of the steel part in order to make it harder or more flexible. Firing it in the furnace at a temperature of 800°C and then cooling it down quickly in oil at around 40°C make the metal harder, but also more brittle. To stabilise the material, it is reheated to various temperatures and for various lengths of time, depending on the flexibility required for the function the part is to serve.改变钢部件的分子结构,增加其硬度或柔韧性。将金属放入温度为800°C的熔炉内煅烧,然后在温度约为40°C的油中迅速冷却,使金属硬度增加,但同时柔韧性也降低。为稳定材料性能,根据该部件功能所要求的柔韧性,将其重新加热至不同温度,加热时间也各有长短。

Heart - 心形

Gemstone cut.一种宝石车工。

Heart (system) - 归零装置(系统)

Steel part enabling the return in one or the other direction of the chronograph hand and/or the split seconds chronograph hand.钢部件,可使计时指针和/或追针计时指针返回一个或另一个方向。

Hertz - 赫兹

Unit of frequency of a movement.机芯的频率单位。

HG - HG视窗显示时间

Abbreviation for "hour shown through an aperture" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“通过视窗显示时间(hour shown through an aperture)”的缩写。

Hour marker - 时间刻度

Symbolic character serving to indicate the subdivisions of time, on the dial. The hour markers, whether pointed baton or rounded baton, may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are to be distinguished from numerals, which are characters representing numbers.用于在表盘上显示时间细分的符号。不论是尖形条状还是圆形条状的时间刻度,均可以是扁平的(绘制)或凸起的(镌刻)。

HS - 跳时

Abbreviation for "Jumping Hour", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Jumping Hour - 跳时(装置)”的缩写。

HU - 世界时间

Abbreviation for "World Time", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“World Time - 世界时间”的缩写。

Hunter pocket watch - 猎表

Pocket watch with a cover, which is distinguished by a winding stem at 3 o'clock and a seconds hand placed along the 12 o'clock – 6 o'clock axis.带有表盖、链柄轴位于3点位置和一个小秒针位于12点至6点轴线的怀表。

I

Impulse-pin - 冲击销

Cylindrical, elongated escapement part, generally made from ruby. The impulse pin receives the impulses given by the pallet-fork. It is fixed to the roller, under the balance-spring for which it serves to maintain the oscillations.圆柱形狭长的擒纵构件,一般用红宝石制成,接受擒纵叉发出的冲击。冲击销固定在游丝下面的摆轮轴上,起到维持摆动的作用。

Index-assembly - 指针装置

Traditional system for adjusting the balance and spring assembly. In Patek Philippe movements, apart from calibre 16-250, it is replaced by an exclusive system named Gyromax.用于调节摆轮游丝装置的传统装置。在百达翡丽机芯中,除了Calibre 16-250机芯外,这种指针装置已由名为Gyromax的专利系统取代。

Inertia-block - 惯性块

Small asymmetrical metal part which acts by inertia. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe, is poised thanks to adjustable inertia-blocks. This equilibrium governs the regularity of rate of the movement, with a minimum gain or loss.通过惯性来运动的小型不对称金属部件。百达翡丽已申请专利的Gyromax摆轮游丝装置可调节惯性快的作用下保持平衡。这一平衡在保证最小误差的情况下,控制机芯转速的规律性。

Inertial flywheel - 惯性飞轮、惯性轮

Regulates the speed of rotation in striking watches.调节报时表的转速。

Integrated circuit - 集成电路

Component of quartz movements which powers the electrical organs, transmits energy to the stepping motor and divides up the frequency of the quartz.为电子元件提供动力、为步进马达传送动力以及分割石英频率的石英机芯元件。

Island - 独立作坊

Mode of operation of the various Grand Complications workshops at Patek Philippe, which work as self-contained units or production islands. The watchmakers individually finish the movement parts, assemble the calibres, the complications and proceed to "fine working" the watches.在百达翡丽中,指在顶级复杂功能作坊的运作模式,为自成一体的机构或生产作坊。制表师独自修整机芯部件、装配机芯、组装复杂功能及对钟表进行精加工。

IRM - IRM动力储备显示

Abbreviation for power reserve indicator, a complication which displays the time left during which a mechanical movement can continue to run without winding.动力储备显示的缩写。这是一项复杂功能,展示机械机芯在不上弦的情况下尚可运作的时间。

IZR - IZR上弦状况显示

IZR是由百达翡丽发明的一种复杂功能。IZR或上弦状况显示器可指示自动上弦腕表上弦的最佳时间。注意,不要混淆IZR与IRM!

J

Jewel - 宝石轴承

In a movement, a synthetic ruby that serves to reduce friction on the staffs of the pivots. Jewels belong to the "other parts" category.在机芯中,用于减少枢轴杆摩擦的人造红宝石。宝石轴承属于“其它部件”范畴。

Jumper - 制轮爪、棘爪

Steel part that locks certain wheels, known as star wheels, by resting against their teeth. Also known as a jumper spring.通过啮合齿片来锁定某些齿轮的一种钢部件,也称作定位杆簧。

Jumping hour - 跳时

Hour appearing in an aperture thanks to a rotating disc, and which replaces an Hours hand. It is referred to as "jumping" since, every hour on the hour, it changes by jumping abruptly from one numeral to the next.在旋转盘的驱动下在视窗中显示时间,代替以时针显示时间。之所以称为“跳”,是因为它在整点时会从一个数字直接跳到另一个数字,以显示时间的变化。

L

Lathe - 车床

Machine tool used to fashion parts by causing them to rotate. Lathes may be operated by hand or automatically.机械工具。利用车床使部件旋转,由此塑造部件。车床可以手动操作或自动操作。

Leaf - 齿片、叶片状指针

Synonymous with pinion tooth.Term used in watchmaking to refer to a hand shaped like a leaf.与小齿轮的齿片同义。制表业的专业术语,指叶片形状的指针。

Leap year - 闰年

In our calendar, a year when the month of February has 29 days instead of 28. Generally speaking, leap years occur every 4 years. Century years, which are multiples of 100, are an exception: only those divisible by 400 are leap years.在日历中,指二月有29天而不是28天的年份。一般来说,每四年一闰年。世纪年(是100的倍数)除外。只有能够整除400的世纪年份才是闰年。

Lépine - 莱芬

  • Jean-Antoine Lépine: French watchmaker (1720-1814) who invented the watch named after him.
  • Lépine watch or calibre: pocket watch without a cover, named after Jean-Antoine Lépine, characterised by a winding-stem at 12 o'clock and a small seconds hand placed along the 12 o'clock – 6 o'clock axis.
  • 莱芬:法国制表师(1720 - 1814年),发明了一种表并以其名字命名。
  • 莱芬怀表:以莱芬名字命名的无盖怀表,这种怀表的上弦柄轴在12点位置,在12点和6点的轴线上有小秒针。

Lever - 扳手

Pivoting part subject to the action of a spring.受弹簧的活动控制的枢轴部件。

Line-engraving - 线刻

A hand engraving technique. Fine line engraving, made with a burin.一种指针的雕刻技术。 用錾刀雕刻出的细腻线条。

Louis XV - 路易十五

Refers to a hand with Louis XV style motif.是带有路易十五风格图纹的指针。

LU - 月相

Abbreviation for "moon phases" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“moon phase - 月相”的缩写。

Lugs - 凸耳(表耳)

Parts extending from the case middle between which a spring bar holds the strap or bracelet.从表壳中段伸出的部件,之间有弹簧杆固定表带或表链。

Luminescent - 夜光

Which emits light and is therefore visible at night. The luminescent substance, applied by Patek Philippe on the hands, numerals or hour markers, is non radioactive.夜晚发光,可以读取时间。百达翡丽钟表的指针、数字或时间刻度所采用的夜光物质无辐射。

M

Machining - 机器加工、机械加工、切削加工

Synonymous with cutting out. Working or fashioning raw material. Forming holes and recesses, milling, turning, drilling and threading are all machining operations. At Patek Philippe, the watch parts are machined on computerised numerical control machines.与“cutting out - 切削”同义。加工或塑造原材料。制造小孔或凹座、铣削、旋转、钻孔及车螺纹均属于机械操作。在百达翡丽,钟表部件均由电脑数值数控设备进行加工。

Mainspring - 主发条

Motor spring of a mechanical movement. As it coils inside the barrel, it accumulates energy. As it uncoils, it transmits the energy to the hands via a gear-train. In Patek Philippe watches, the mainspring is fitted with a slipping spring when the movement is self-winding.机械机芯的动力弹簧。当主发条盘绕在发条鼓中时,可以储存动力。当它展开时,可通过齿轮系向指针传输能量。在百达翡丽钟表中,若机芯是自动上弦的,主发条与滑动发条安装在一起。

Manually wound - 手动上弦

A manually wound movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by hand (using the winding crown).手动上弦机芯是指用手上弦(使用上弦表冠)的机械机芯。

Manufacture - 制造商

Refers to a company that makes a watch in its entirety: conception, development, production, assembly and adjustment. One speaks of a Manufacture as opposed to a finishing workshop.指包办制表各项工序的公司:从构思、开发、生产、组装到调校全过程。所谓制造商是相对于加工作坊而言。

Marquise - 榄尖形、马眼形

Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with navette cut.修长型宝石车工,与“水雷形车工”同义。

Mechanically bracelet - 机制表链

A bracelet with metal links produced on CNC machinery.用电脑数值控制机器设备生产的具有金属链接的表链。

Mechanism - 机械装置、机件

Combination of parts which, together, operate a function. A watch movement comprises several mechanisms.共同执行一项功能的部件结合体。钟表机芯包括几种机械装置。

Micro-scratch - 微小刮痕

Refers to a flawed appearance on watch exterior parts: a tiny, almost invisible scratch.指钟表外部组件的瑕疵:几乎看不见的微小刮痕。

铣削

一种切割工序,用于在物体表面进行切割、抛光并精加工出微小的凹陷,形成用于嵌入宝石或时标的孔洞。操作时需要使用高速车铣机床,是一项十分精细复杂的工艺。

Miniature enamel painting - 搪瓷精绘

See "Enamel".参见“Enamel - 珐琅”的解释。

Minute repeater - 三问

See "Striking mechanism".参见“Striking mechanism - 报时机构报时装置”的解释。

Minute track - 分钟刻度

The minute track is the mode of displaying the minutes (railway track).分钟刻度是显示分钟的一种模式(铁道分钟刻度)。

Mirror - 镜面

Describes the particularly soft and luminous result of polishing. Mirror polish is also called black or specular polish.描述格外柔和明亮的抛光效果。镜面抛光也称暗光或反射抛光。

Moon phases - 月相

A complication which depicts the evolution of the moon, as seen from the earth. The indication is generally shown in an aperture, but may sometimes by displayed by a hand.一项描述从地球上观察月亮演变的复杂功能。这种变化一般通过视窗显示,但有时也用指针显示。

Motion-work - 运动传动机构、运动机件

In a movement, the motion-work is the gear train which drives the hour, minute and seconds hands.运动机件是指机芯中驱动时针、分针和秒针运转的齿轮系。

Movement - 机芯

There are three types of movements, or calibres, which drive Patek Philippe watches:

  • Mechanical manually wound movements
  • Mechanical self-winding movements.
  • Quartz movements which, in Patek Philippe watches, comprise 10% electronic components and 90% mechanical components.
驱动百达翡丽钟表的机芯或口径有三种类型:
  • 机械手动上弦机芯
  • 机械自动上弦机芯
  • 百达翡丽钟表的石英机芯包括10%的电子元件以及90%的机械元件。
  • Movement regulation - 机芯调校

    Stage no. 5 in the working of any watch:

    • In a mechanical watch, the regularity of the running of the movement is ensured by the oscillations of the balance and spring assembly.
    • In a quartz watch, the regularity of the running of the movement is ensured by the oscillations of the quartz.
    • 钟表运作的第5阶段:
    • 在机械表中,摆轮游丝装置的摆动保证机芯运转的规律性。
    • 在石英表中,石英的摆动保证机芯运转的规律性。

    Mirror polishing——镜面抛光

    又称“黑色抛光”,被视为所有抛光工艺中要求最高的一种,真正的镜面抛光历来依靠手工完成,且只用于最超卓的时计。将部件在经过超细钻石涂层处理的锌盘上打圈摩擦,完成之后,表面呈单向反光,或反射全部光线,熠熠如银镜;或着吸收所有光线,呈深不见底的乌黑。

    N

    Nautilus - Nautilus系列

    A collection, for men and ladies, created in 1976. Nautilus watches are characterised by the shape of their monobloc case: an octagonal ship's porthole secured by four lateral screws to ensure that it is perfectly sealed and water-resistant. Each of its eight sides is subtly curved to trace a perfect arc of a circle, forming the contours of a great classic.1976 年创作男装表和女装表系列。Nautilus系列以连体表壳的独特形状而著称:四侧面螺丝牢牢固定的一个状似八边形船舷窗的表壳,确保表壳完美密封性与防水性。其八个侧面均精巧地弯成一个圆滑的弧形,创造出经典的手表轮廓。

    Navette - 水雷形

    Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with the marquise cut.修长型的宝石车工,与“榄尖形/马眼形”车工同义。

    Nickel silver - 镍银、白铜银、铜镍锌合金

    Copper, zinc and nickel alloy, oxidises less easily than brass.铜、锌和镍的合金,比黄铜更难氧化。

    NIHS 92-10 - NIHS 92-10

    Water resistance norm equivalent to the international ISO-2291 norm. All Patek Philippe watches are tested to around 20% more than the guaranteed value. For example, a watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 25 metres has been tested at a pressure of 3 bars, meaning 30 metres (1 bar = 10 metres).相当于国际ISO-2291标准的防水标准。所有百达翡丽腕表均经检测,以超越保证品质标准的20%以上。例如,25米深度防水的腕表经检测可承受3巴(即30米,1巴=1米)的压力。

    Numeral - 数字

    Character representing a number used to indicate the units of time on the dial. The Arabic, Roman or Breguet style numerals may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are different from symbolic characters such as hour markers.用于表示表盘上单位时间的数字符号。这些阿拉伯、罗马或宝玑式数字可以是扁平的(绘制)或者是凸起的(镶嵌)。它们有别于象征性的符号,如时间刻度等。

    O

    Onyx - 缟玛瑙

    Fine gemstone, a variety of agate featuring regular concentric zones of various colours. The crowns of Twenty-4 steel watches are set with an onyx.精美宝石,一种带有多色规则同心环带的玛瑙。Twenty~4®钢质腕表的表冠上就镶嵌着一颗缟玛瑙。

    Opaline-white - 乳白玻璃、乳光、乳白色

    A solid white finish with a silky rendreing. It is achieved by spraying a silvery coating of powder before applying a transparent layer.使光滑的打底不带有经纬线的加工方式,做法是在涂上透明护层之前,涂上喷有粉末的银色涂层。

    Oscillation - 摆动、振动

    In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in both directions, to and fro. In a quartz watch, the double vibration of the quartz. One oscillation comprises two vibrations.在机械表中,指摆轮游丝装置在两个方向的运动。在石英表中,则指石英的双振动。一次摆动包括两次振动。

    Oscillating weight - 自动盘、摆轮锤、摆动锤

    See "Rotor".参见“自动盘”的解释。

    Other parts - 其他部件

    Patek Philippe refers to a certain number of movement parts, apart from the plates, bridges, wheel trains and steel parts, as "other parts".百达翡丽钟表的"其它部件”是指除主机板、板桥、齿轮系及钢部件以外的其它机芯部件。

    Oval - 椭圆形、卵形

    Gemstone cut.一种宝石的车工。

    P

    Palladium - 钯

    Extremely hard white metal. In Patek Philippe watches, it is used instead of nickel in the composition of white gold.异常坚硬的白色金属。在百达翡丽钟表中,它取代镍用于合成人工白金。

    Pallets - 擒纵叉

    A steel or brass part within a mechanical watch shaped like a ship's anchor. It makes up the escapement together with a special-shaped wheel with curved teeth, called the pallet wheel".在机械表中,形似船锚的钢或黄铜部件,它与擒纵叉轮(具有曲齿的特殊形状齿轮)组成擒纵机构。

    Patek - 百达

    Antoine Norbert de Patek (1812-1877). A Pole who settled in Geneva in 1835. He took an interest in highly valuable pocket watches and acquired a significant clientele. In 1839, he founded Patek, Czapek & Cie. He then met watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe in 1844 and suggested that they become associates. He then changed the name of the Manufacture in 1845 to become Patek & Cie. It only became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.安东·罗伯·百达(1812-1877年),波兰人,1835 年定居日内瓦。他对珍贵稀有的怀表情有独钟,并获得一群显赫的客户。1839年,他创建了Patek, Czapek & Cie公司。1844 年,他知遇制表师吉恩·亚男·翡丽(Jean-Adrien Philippe),后者建议建立合作关系。1845年,他将公司名改为Patek & Cie,1851年又更名为百达翡丽(Patek Philippe & Cie)。

    Pear - 梨形

    • Hand shape
    • Gemstone cut, shaped like the fruit with the same name.
    • 指针的形状
    • 一种宝石的车工,形状象同名的水果——梨。

    Petite Sonnerie - 小报时

    See "Striking mechanism".参见“Striking mechanism - 报时机构、报时装置”的解释。

    Philippe - 翡丽

    Jean-Adrien Philippe (1815-1894). A French watchmaker who invented the keyless winding and time setting system in 1842. He met Antoine Norbert de Patek in 1844 in Paris, during an exhibition of his invention. He joined Patek in Geneva the following year. Founded on May 15th 1845, the Patek & Cie company became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.吉恩·亚男·翡丽(1815-1894年),一名法国制表师,1842 年发明免钥匙上弦及时间设定系统。1844年,翡丽在巴黎举办个人发明展览会,期间与安东·罗伯·百达不期而遇,并于次年加入日内瓦百达公司。Patek & Cie创立于1845年5月15日,并于1851年更名为百达翡丽(Patek Philippe & Cie)。

    Piezo-electric - 压电

    A property of certain crystals such as quartz. The piezo-electricity of quartz means that it is deformed and vibrates under the effect of a low-intensity electric current. Its vibrations are remarkably constant.某些晶体的特性,如石英,石英的压电效应是指它在低强度电流的作用下会变形和产生极其稳定的振动。

    Pinion - 小齿轮

    A toothed movement part which, combined with a wheel top, forms a wheel. On Patek Philippe watches, the pinions are in hardened steel. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste. The end of the pinion is polished on a leather grinding-wheel.带齿的机芯部件,与轮板共同构成齿轮。百达翡丽钟表的小齿轮由硬化钢制成。小齿轮的齿用途有研磨膏的木砂轮进行手工抛光,小齿轮的末端则在皮砂轮上抛光。

    Pin (on a movement) - 插销、销钉(位于机芯上)

    Small cylindrical pegs driven in, used for fixing, guiding or stopping.可推进的小圆柱栓钉,用于固定、引导或堵塞。

    Pin (on a buckle) - 扣针(位于表带扣上)

    A pointed metal prong which goes through various holes in the leather, on traditional straps.传统表带上穿过各个扣眼的尖头金属插脚。

    Pin buckle - 针扣

    Fastens the strap. A metal buckle composed of a ring or rectangle and a prong called a pin.用于扣紧表带。金属扣环由环形或矩形与称为扣针的插脚组成。

    Pipe - 管件

    Hollow metal cylindrical part used for many purposes (pivoting, supporting arbors, protecting parts, etc.) Pipes belong to the category of "other parts".空心金属圆柱形部件,用于多种用途(绕轴旋转、支撑轴心、保护部件等)。管件属于“其它部件”范畴。

    Pivot - 枢轴

    Movement component which rotates in a fixed support.在固定支点旋转的机芯组件。

    Pivot shank - 枢轴杆

    Small stem or rod.细小的转柄或支杆。

    Plating - 镀敷

    Method of depositing or transferring metal on the dial, for a specific surface rendering.在表盘上熔敷或传导金属的方法,专用于表面打底。

    Point - 疵点

    May refer to a flaw on watch exterior parts: a small burr.可指钟表外部组件上的瑕疵——小毛边。

    Polishing——抛光

    抛光工艺是最重要的精饰技术之一,它能凸显时计的形态,强调不同部分的特色,并在视觉上融合宝石镶嵌、珐琅工艺乃至雕刻的效果。在百达翡丽,这种被称为“自由浮动”的工艺历来依靠手工完成,它在操作时不能施加压力。精通这项高难度工艺需要丰富的经验、熟练的手艺和敏捷的反应。工艺师会采用尺寸及材质不一的打磨滚轮,所用材质各异,包括织物、毛毡或动物皮毛(天然或合成物)。抛光能完美修缮难以察觉的瑕疵。

    Polisher - 抛光机

    Tool or machine used to polish or to create certain decorative motifs such as circular-graining.用于抛光或制作特定装饰图案(如旋转式打圈图案)的工具或机器。

    Pounced ornament - 雕饰

    See "Relief".参见“Relief - 浮雕”的解释。

    Power reserve - 动力储备

    A complication that indicates the state of the power reserve: the time during which a mechanical movement can continue running without being wound, ranging from 48 hours to 10 days for Patek Philippe watches.一种显示动力储备状态的复杂功能:在此期间,百达翡丽钟表的机械机芯无须重新上弦可持续运转48小时至10天不等。

    Pre-assembly, Pre-assemble - 预装配

    Pre-assembling bridges means driving the jewels into the sunk holes.预装配桥板指将宝石轴承嵌入凹孔内。

    Press - 压力机、冲压机

    • A mechanism or device that exercises pressure on a solid object.
    • The combination of a punch and die used in the pressing process.
    • 给固体物质施加压力的机构或装置。
    • 加压过程中所使用的冲头和冲模的组合。

    Pressing - 冲压、挤压、压制

    Synonymous with cutting out with a "cutter". Striking the material with a punch on a die to cut out a shape.

    • In making watch exteriors, pressing means not only cutting out but also shaping, correcting or finishing. After cutting out the rough shape of the part, the metal is distorted by pressing successively to obtain the desired shape. Patek Philippe is one of the last watch Manufactures to press its own cases. The Manufacture makes its own press tools.
    • 与用“刀具”切削同义,即用冲模上的冲头冲击冲模中的材料以切出外形。
    • 在制作钟表的外部组件时,冲压不仅指切削,还指成形、校正或精饰。切削部件的毛胚后,通过不断挤压使金属变形,变成所需的形状。百达翡丽是最后一批自行压制表壳的钟表制造商之一,而且自行制作冲压工具。

    Princess - 公主式

    Gemstone cut, with a square base.一种宝石的车工,底座呈正方形。

    Profile-turning - 仿形

    Cutting parts, particularly pinions, from rotating cylindrical metal bars, using dedicated tools.使用专用工具使部件(尤其是小齿轮)与旋转的圆柱形金属条板分离。

    Protective coating - 保护涂层

    Red varnish placed in the hollows of gilded numbers and logos in order to protect them from subsequent surface treatments.覆盖在镀金数字和标识凹孔内的红色清漆,可在随后的表面处理中提供保护。

    PS - 小秒针

    Abbreviation for "small seconds" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“small seconds - 小秒针”的缩写。

    Punch - 冲头

    Sharp-edged tool which stamps the material placed on a die, during the cutting out or pressing process.在切削或冲压过程中对放置在冲模上的材料进行冲压的锋利工具。

    Push-button - 按钮

    A button pressed with the finger to activate certain functions, such as those of a chronograph.用手指按的按钮,用于启动若干功能,如计时腕表的功能。

    Pocket watch - 怀表

    Watch intended to be carried in the pocket of a waistcoat. Patek Philippe produces Lépine or hunter pocket watches, which are exclusively mechanical.一种放在马甲口袋内以随身携带的手表。百达翡丽出产纯机械类的莱芬怀表或猎表。

    铂金(材料)

    贵重金属。制作钟表时,我们采用950铂金(即95%的纯铂金和5%的其它金属)。这是最难以加工的金属材料,在它面前折戟的工具数不胜数。其加工时间比金长三到四倍。

    Pointage——压嵌

    又称铆接。此工序用钻石磨砂轮或尖角(点钻)将时标准确固定在表盘结构上。一旦数字被放入表盘上的导孔内,用磨砂轮或钻子压平数字背面的“脚”,将其牢牢固定。

    Polishing the pinion ends——末端抛光

    为时计传动装置提供动力的小齿轮对时计机芯而言至关重要,它由一个齿轮轴和附近称为“齿瓣”的长形轮齿组成。轴端面积极小,但若将小齿轮放入齿轮盘,仅露出轴尖,便可进行加工。利用皮革磨砂轮进行抛光,直到枢轴末端光滑和外凸程度令人满意。

    Polishing the faces of the pinion leaves——齿瓣表面抛光

    这是一道清洁小齿轮齿瓣内部平面的工序。由于需要抛光的精钢表面非常小,需把小齿轮拧到一个临时齿轮上以进行支撑,防止受损。抛光需使用涂有研磨膏的硬质金属磨砂轮。抛光后会使齿瓣散发耀眼光泽,并提升抗氧化的能力。

    Polishing the pinion teeth——轮齿抛光

    将极小的齿轮放在一个承托座上,调低涂有研磨膏的木制砂轮,令其接触齿瓣,让小齿轮旋转,以此将其打磨至银光闪亮。这道工序能减少钢制齿轮组的摩擦,并延长传动系统的寿命。

    Q

    Q - 万年历

    Abbreviation for "Perpetual Calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Perpetual Calendar - 万年历”的缩写。

    QA - 年历

    Abbreviation for "annual calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“annual calendar - 年历”的缩写。

    QR - 带有自动回位日期指针的万年历

    Abbreviation for "Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand - 带有自动回位日期指针的万年历”的缩写。

    Quartz - 石英

    • In its natural state, quartz is a rock crystal.
    • For watch movements, the quartz is manufactured synthetically. It is used for its piezo-electric properties.
    • 自然状态的石英是一种无色水晶。
    • 钟表机芯内的石英是人工合成的,因具有压电性能而被采用。

    R

    R - 三问

    Abbreviation for "Minute repeater", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Minute repeater - 三问”的缩写。

    Rack - 齿条

    Steel part with straight toothing used in triggering the minute-repeater mechanism.启动三问报时机构时所用的带有直齿的钢质部件。

    Railway track minute circle - 铁道分钟刻度

    Peripheral indication of the minutes on the dial reminiscent of the rails on a railway track.表盘上表示分钟的圆周标记,形似铁路的轨道。

    Ratchet wheel - 大钢轮

    A toothed wheel fixed by a square hole to the barrel arbor. It is placed between the crown wheel and the barrel arbor.通过方形空洞固定在条轴上的齿轮,置于表冠轮与条轴之间。

    REC - 长方形

    Abbreviation for the "Rectangular shape" of calibres in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Rectangular shape - 长方形”的缩写。

    Recess - 凹槽

    Hollow cut in bridges and plates to receive various components.于桥板与主机板之间的凹处,用于安装各机件。

    Relief - 浮雕

    Hand engraving technique, also called pounced ornament. Relief is a "trompe l'oeil" or optical illusion type of modelling in the manner of bas-relief, created using a graver.手工雕刻技术,也称为雕饰。浮雕是用雕刻刀以仿浅浮雕风格雕琢出来的“欺人拟真画”或错视画类型。

    Repassage, Repasser - 整合

    Activity of the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmaker assembles, adjusts, files and balances movement parts. He adapts the parts to each other so that they run perfectly.顶级复杂功能作坊的工作。制表师装配、调整、琢磨及平衡机芯部件,使各部件相互配合,保证运转顺畅。

    Restoration or repair, rhabillage - 修复或修理

    Repairing, restoring a watch to good working order. Refers to service or repair departments (ICS).修理、修复手表,使恢复到正常运作状态。参见服务及修理部门(ICS)。

    Retrograde hand - 自动回位指针

    A hand with a tip moving over the arc of a circle instead of a circle. When it reaches the end of its path, it returns instantly to its point of departure. Retrograde hands may give various indications such as hours, minutes. Patek Philippe has several watch models with a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand.末端沿圆弧而非圆周移动的指针。当其到达路径末端时,会立即返回至起点。自动回位指针可提供小时、分钟等多种指示。百达翡丽的若干带有万年历的钟表型号,里面均带有自动回位日期指针。

    Rhodium - 铑

    Metal often used to give a beautiful silvery colour to white gold (for watch exteriors) or for certain movement parts, especially bridges and plates. On the brass or the nickel silver of the latter, it also serves to protect against oxidisation.一种金属,常用于为钟表外部组件或某些机芯部件(特别是桥板和主机板)所用的白金增添美观的银色。对于黄铜或镍银制品,铑还可防止氧化。

    Rhodium plating - 镀铑

    Coating with a fine layer of rhodium by electrolysis.通过电解镀上精密的铑层。

    River - 净水色

    Term used to describe D-colour (exceptional white +) or E-colour (exceptional white) diamonds.用于形容颜色为D级(超白 +)或E级(超白)的钻石。

    Roman - 罗马数字

    System writing figures as letters: Roman numerals: I (1). V (5). X (10. L (50). C (100. D (500). M (1000).以字母表示数字的体系——罗马数字,即I(1)、V(5)、X(10)、L(50)、C(100)、D(500)、M(1000)。

    Rotor - 自动盘

    Component of self-winding movements, synonymous with oscillating weight. The rotor is a heavy part which rotates or oscillates thanks to wrist movements and automatically winds the mainspring. Nonetheless, when the watch is not worn for a certain period of time, one resorts to manual winding to reactivate the accumulation of energy in the barrel. Patek Philippe rotors, which are mounted on ball-bearing mechanisms, are always in 18 or 22-carat gold. When they are particularly small in size, they are called mini-rotors.自动上弦机芯的组件,与摆动锤同义。自动盘为重型部件,随手腕的摆动而转动或摆动并自动给主发条上弦。不过,若腕表在一段时期内不被佩戴,需要先以手动上弦,以重新激发发条匣内的动力积累。百达翡丽的自动盘固定在滚珠轴承机构上,一般用18或22K黄金制造。若它们的尺寸特别小,就称为微型自动盘。

    Rounding off - 修正

    On a rounding-off cutter, the watchmaker operates a milling-cutter to correct the teeth and the diameter. This operation is performed exclusively when restoring antique watches, or when the watchmaker is working on the basis of a movement blank.在修正切割机上,制表师运用铣刀调整齿片和直径。这项操作只有在修复古董表时,或制表师在机芯半成品上操作时才会进行。

    Round-polished - 圆角抛光

    Referred to in French as "bassiné", in reference to "bassine" type cases with rounded profile that are smooth all around. For example, certain hour markers are referred to as round-polished markers.法语称为“bassiné”,与圆形轮廓且周边平滑的“bassiné”风格表壳有关。例如,某些时间刻度称为圆角抛光标记。

    Running equation - 运转时差

    Complication that consists of indicating solar time (real time) thanks to a second Minutes hand.用另外一支分针指示太阳时(实际时间)的复杂功能。

    S

    S - 中置秒针

    Abbreviation for "centre sweep second hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“centre sweep second hand - 中置秒针”的缩写。

    Sapphire - 蓝宝石

    • Transparent synthetic material for watch glasses (or crystals) which has the property of being scratch-resistant.
    • Gemstone, a variety of corundum. It is generally blue, but may be pink, yellow, etc.
    • 用于表镜(或水晶表镜)的透明合成材料,具有抗刮伤的特性。
    • 一种宝石,刚玉的一种。一般为蓝色,也可以为粉红色、黄色等。

    Satin-brushed - 缎光刷面

    Describes a shiny surface toned down by a slightly frosted effect.指以轻微的磨砂效果稍加缓和的光亮表面。

    Scratch - 刮痕

    Refers to a flaw on watch exterior parts: small line, shallow furrow.指钟表外部组件上的瑕疵:细线,浅沟。

    Self-winding - 自动上弦

    A self-winding movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by wrist movements thanks to the oscillating weight (or rotor).自动上弦机芯属于机械机芯,由摆轮锤(或自动盘)随手腕的摆动而进行上弦。

    Setting stylus - 拨针

    A stylus with a metal tip used to push the correctors. Setting styluses are made by Patek Philippe and delivered with all watches requiring them.用于推动校正器的带有金属尖头的针头。拨针由百达翡丽制作,并随需要拨针的钟表一起附送。

    Shock-absorber - 避震器

    Device facilitating the mobility of jewels so as to absorb shocks.促进宝石轴承机动性的装置、用于减震。

    SID - 恒星时间

    Abbreviation for "sidereal time" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“sidereal time - 恒星时间”的缩写。

    Sidereal time - 恒星时间

    A complication that displays sidereal time. It is based on the earth's rotation in relation to a fixed point, such as a star. It is invariable for a given point and shorter than the average time of 3 min. 56 sec. per day (23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds /24 hours).显示恒星时间的复杂功能。以地球围绕固定点(如恒星)的旋转为依据。就某一特定点而言是恒定不变的,比平均时间每天短3 分 56 秒(23小时56分4秒/24小时)。

    Sinking - 挖槽

    Sinking a recess or concave chamfer (slightly hollowed cut edge). 形成凹槽或凹面倒角(轻微凹陷的切边)。

    Slide piece - 打簧滑动件

    On a striking or minute repeater watch, the part that slides along the case middle to activate the striking mechanism or switches it to silent mode.报时表或三问表中沿表壳中心滑动的部件,用于启动报时机构或转换为静音模式。

    Slipping spring - 滑动发条

    A potential characteristic of the mainspring. When the watch is worn, it is automatically wound constantly and when coiled to the maximum, excess tension might break the mainspring. The outermost tip of the spring is thus not entirely fixed. It is equipped with a slipping spring, a blade that slides intermittently against the inside wall of the drum equipped with three notches, if the tension becomes excessive.主发条的一种潜在特性。佩戴中的腕表会不断自动上弦,当卷绕至最大限度时,过度的张力可能会损坏主发条。因此发条的最外端不会被完全固定。并配备有滑动发条,在张力过大时,滑动发条会间歇性地向带有三个凹槽的鼓筒内壁滑动。

    Small seconds hand - 小秒针

    Seconds indicated on a small subdial, and not in the centre.小副表盘上的秒钟,不在中心位置。

    Smoothing down——磨饰

    常用于机芯部件的一道工序。使用工作台上形如大瓶塞的小型钢质工具,通常再配上金刚砂纸,可以将任何多余的线条和划痕磨平(去除)。

    Solstice - 至日

    Date of the longest day and the shortest day of the year. There are two solstices per year, corresponding to the start of the summer and to that of the winter.一年中最长的一天和最短的一天。一年有两个至日,分别对应夏天和冬天的开始。

    Split seconds chronograph - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时

    An additional complication within a chronograph. A split seconds chronograph features an additional seconds hand that is superimposed on the chronograph hand. It enables measurement of a lap or split time, without stopping the measurement in progress. This process can be repeated several times in a row. After displaying the split time, the additional seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand.计时腕表的一项附加复杂功能,其特点是在计时腕表的指针上额外增加一个秒针。它可以连续多次测量分段时间,而无需中断进行中的计时。显示分段时间后,附加秒针将会赶上计时腕表的指针。

    Spring - 弹簧

    A steel blade that pulls a lever to its point of departure.将扳手拉到其出发点的钢制叶片。

    Spring bar - 生耳

    A thin metal rod fixed between the horns/lugs (or attachments) of the case by means of two small holes on the side, for attaching the leather strap or metal bracelet. On Patek Philippe watches, the spring bars are in gold when the cases are in gold, since they wear out less when gold rubs against gold than when steel rubs against gold. This also diminishes the risk of the spring bar and case working loose and causing the strap/bracelet to drop off.借助于表壳边上的两个小孔固定在表耳(或凸耳)之间的细金属棒,用来固定皮革表带或金属表链。如果百达翡丽表的表壳是黄金的,那么其生耳也是黄金的,因为黄金与黄金之间的磨损少于其它金属与黄金的磨损,同时也减少因生耳与表壳分离而导致的表带/表链脱落。

    SQU - 镂空

    Abbreviation for "Skeleton" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Skeleton - 镂空”的缩写。

    Skeleton - 镂空机芯

    Refers to a movement that is open worked and engraved by hand.指敞开运作并以手工雕刻的机芯。

    Star wheel - 星轮

    Type of wheel with large triangular teeth, periodically locked by a jumper-spring. Its shape resembles that of a star.一种带有大三角形齿的齿轮,被定位杆簧周期性锁定,其形状象星星。

    Steel - 钢

    • The term "steel parts" encompasses all steel parts of the movement. This is always hardened steel.
    • Stainless steel: steel used for watch exteriors. It is a material that is hard to work with, particularly to set with gems.
    • “钢部件”一词包括机芯的所有钢制部件,一般为硬化钢。
    • 不锈钢:用于钟表外部组件的钢材,是难以处理的材料,在镶嵌宝石时尤为显著。

    Stem - 柄轴

    Metal cylindrical movement part.

    • Winding stem: it ensures the winding of a mechanical manually wound movement. Operated by the crown, it successively drives the winding pinion placed at its end, then the crown wheel, and finally the escape wheel.
    • Split stem: winding stem for watches with a monobloc case. The movement is inserted into the case with a short part of the winding stem ("plug" part). The second part of the stem ("socket" part) is thus inserted through the side of the case thanks to the tube.
    • 柱状金属机芯部件。
    • 龙心/上弦柄轴:确保机器手动上弦机芯的上弦装置。通过表冠操作,依次驱动装置于其末端的上弦小齿轮、表冠齿轮以及擒纵轮。
    • 拼合柄轴:连体表壳腕表的上弦柄轴。机芯嵌入表壳内,带有上弦柄轴的一个短部份(“插头”),柄轴的另一部分(“插座”)以管件形式从表壳侧边嵌入。

    Stepping motor - 步进马达

    Battery-driven motor which distributes the energy in a quartz movement. It plays the same role as the escapement in a mechanical movement.在石英机芯中分配动力并以电池驱动的马达,其功能就如机械机芯的擒纵机构。

    Straight graining——直线粒纹

    利用一种类似磨砂铅笔的工具,沿着部件的方形切面进行平行摩擦,金属表面会留下密集而柔和的哑面纹理。

    Striking mechanism - 打击机构、报时装置

    A complication which strikes or chimes (on request by operating a slide piece, or automatically). There are several types of striking mechanism. Patek Philippe produces the following types:

    • Minute repeaters: they strike the hours, quarters and minutes, exclusively on request.
    • Petites Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and the quarters (without the hours) in passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
    • Grandes Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and also the hours and quarters when passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
    • The Westminster chime housed in the Star Caliber 2000: this is the most complicated of all striking mechanisms. It faithfully reproduces the famous Westminster chime. It automatically strikes the quarters, by adding them up. At each full hour, it strikes first the four quarter-hours and then the hours.
    • 一种可以报时或打点的复杂功能(通过打簧滑动杆或自动操作)。打击装置分为几种类型,百达翡丽生产以下几种:
    • 三问(表):可以按要求报出时、刻、分。
    • 小报时:自动正点及按过去的刻钟(不包括报上小时数目)报时。亦结合三问报时功能。
    • 大报时:自动正点报时,以及按过去的小时及刻钟报时。亦结合三问报时功能。
    • Star Caliber 2000怀表的西敏寺钟声报时:这是最复杂的报时机构,能真实地再现著名的西敏寺钟声。以累积的方式报上刻钟。在每个整点,它先报四个刻钟,再报正点。

    Strap - 表带

    Strip/band of leather (or other non-metal material) that holds the watch to the wrist.将腕表固定在手腕上的皮革(或其它非金属材料)带子。

    Stud - 拴销

    Small cylinder driven or screwed in, serving as a support for a part to turn freely.推入或拧入的小柱体,作为其它部件自由旋转的支点。

    Satin brushing——锻面磨砂抛光

    抛光工艺之一,用涂有细金刚磨砂膏的打磨头对金属表面进行“磨平”或磨光,产生一种带精细纹理的哑光效果。

    Sinking the holes——凿槽

    在先前由机器钻出的小孔上挖出的凹面倒角或内弯边缘——又称凹槽。然后将凹槽高度抛光。倒角槽不仅能让螺丝更加容易装配,亦令嵌入小孔的宝石更加闪耀。

    Sinking the wheels——齿轮凿槽

    过去,由于润滑油流动不太稳定,开挖齿轮槽是为了让润滑油尽可能聚集在中轴。今天,这道工序仅是为了美观。不同齿轮都会有一个抛光挖槽,即一个凹面倒角或略微凹陷的空槽。该工序使用一台装有钻石切割工具的机镂车床完成,操作时将钻石刀具小心调低,分毫不差地在部件上方固定好。

    Sunburst——日辉纹

    一种用于表盘的加工工艺,用毛刷和研磨膏在金属表面创造出从中央向边缘扩散的纹理光泽。

    T

    Timekeeping - 计时

    Measuring elapsed time by means of a chronograph.用计时腕表测量占用的时间。

    Time zones - 时区

    Simultaneous indication of the time in several time zones. The most common models are dual time zone watches which give home time and local time in the place one is travelling to. Patek Philippe also produces a model called "World Time", which simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones.同时显示几个时区的时间。最普遍的型号就是两地时区表,可同时显示原居地及当地时间。百达翡丽还生产一种名叫“世界时间”的型号,可同时显示24个时区的时间。

    Threading - 车螺纹

    Cutting a screw-thread on a rod or in a hole.在棒杆上或空穴内刻上螺纹。

    TO - 陀飞轮

    Abbreviation for "Tourbillon", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Tourbillon - 陀飞轮”的缩写。

    Top Wesselton - 顶级Wesselton钻石

    Refers to diamonds of F (Rare white+) or G (Rare white) colour.F级(极白+)或G级(极白)颜色的钻石。

    Tourbillon - 陀飞轮

    A device invented in 1801 by A.-L. Breguet, eliminates variations in rate due to gravity, in vertical positions. The tourbillon comprises a mobile carriage carrying the escapement and balance and spring assembly components. Crafting it represents an impressive technical accomplishment. At Patek Philippe, 69 tiny parts are housed inside a space with a diameter of around 10 millimetres, and which together weigh just 0.3 grams.由宝玑(A.-L. Breguet)于 1801 年发明的一种装置,能消除因垂直重力造成的速率偏差。陀飞轮包括一个载有擒纵机构、摆轮游丝装置的活动托架。陀飞轮的制作体现精湛的工艺。在百达翡丽钟表中,陀飞轮由69个小零件组成,直径约10毫米,总重量不过0.3克。

    Trimming——修边

    除去机芯主板或夹板上因机械处理留下的任何粗糙痕迹和碎屑,通常会使用带细矛头的刮刀。

    Tropical - Tropical表带

    Refers to a bracelet in a composite material from the Aquanaut sports collection by Patek Philippe. Virtually indestructible even in a natural salt water or extremely cold environment, it is remarkably resistant to traction and to ultra-violet rays.指百达翡丽Aquanaut系列运动表中以合成材料制成的表带。即使在盐水中或极寒冷的环境下也不会损坏,对抗牵引力和紫外线的性能同样出色。

    Turning - 车削

    Fashioning with a lathe, whether hand-operated or engine-driven.使用车床(不论是手工操作或是机器驱动)进行精加工。

    Tweezers - 镊子

    Fine pincers used to pick up small objects (always used in plural form).用来夹起小对象的小钳子(英文通常使用复数形式表示)。

    Twenty~4® - Twenty~4®系列

    Representing a contemporary interpretation of the Gondolo ladies' model, this collection inspired by the Art Deco movement is based on a double-shafted cambered case (4824). Twenty-4® watches lovingly caress the lines of the wrist by adopting a seductively curved silhouette, extended by a broad, yet extremely thin bracelet. They are available in two sizes (medium and small), three materials (steel, white or rose gold) , in jewelled watch and Haute Joaillerie versions.该系列是对Gondolo系列女装表的现代演绎,取材于艺术装饰运动,以双井干略拱的表壳(编号4828)为基础。Twenty~4®系列表采用优美的弧形表壳,并用宽而薄的表链加以延伸,与手腕的线条极为吻合。该系列有两个型号(中号和小号)、三种材质(不锈钢、白金或玫瑰金),分为珠宝镶嵌和高级珠宝两个小系列。

    U

    Unbalance - 失衡

    Disequilibrium of a rotating part.旋转部件的不均衡。

    V

    Variation in rate - 速率偏差

    When referring to watches, means the gain or loss each day. This is particularly noticeable in a mechanical watch, and virtually nil in a quartz watch. It must fall within strict tolerance thresholds in order for the movement to be granted chronometer certification.就腕表而言,系指时间误差。机械表中会出现这种情况,但石英表不会出现这样的情况。机芯若想通过精密定时器认证,就必须符合严格的容差限值。

    Vibration - 振动

    In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in one direction, forwards and backwards. In a quartz watch, the simple vibration of the quartz. A vibration is equivalent to a half-oscillation.在机械表中,摆轮游丝装置向同意方向来回摆动。在石英表中,由石英产生简单振动。一个振动相当于半个摆动。

    Velvet finishing——起绒处理

    常用于表盘的装饰工艺,利用两种喷砂处理形成,首先用碎石和水进行激烈的喷砂处理,直到获得磨砂表面;接着用鞑靼膏做研磨材料,带来奶油色的柔和绒面效果。

    Vertical satin brushing——垂直缎面磨砂

    使用铜毛刷和研磨膏来操作的一项表盘装饰工艺,操作时必须小心地将刷子下拉。

    W

    Watch - (钟|腕|怀)表

    Case fitted with a watch movement which shows the time and various additional indications with varying degrees of complexity. Patek Philippe produces wristwatches and pocket watches.由机芯和表壳组成的装置,用以显示时间和各种复杂程度不同的附加功能。百达翡丽出产腕表和怀表。

    Westminster - 西敏寺钟声

    See "Striking mechanism".参见“ Striking mechanism - 报时机构、报时装置”的解释。

    Wheel - 齿轮

    Circular movement part (wheel top + pinion) that spins around an axis and transmits force or energy. At Patek Philippe, the wheels are chamfered, circular satin finished, sunk and gilded. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste.围绕轴心旋转及传送动力或能量的环形机芯部件(轮板+小齿轮)。在百达翡丽,齿轮是给倒角,旋转式打圈磨光处理及经过镀金。这些齿轮的齿片均用涂有一层研磨膏的木质砂轮进行手工抛光。

    Wheel plate - 轮板

    Movement part which, together with a pinion, forms a wheel.机芯的一个部件,和小齿轮一起构成齿轮。

    Winding - 上弦

    Winding the spring of a mechanical watch. This winding may be done manually or automatically by wrist movements.拧紧机械手表的发条。上弦可以是手动上弦,也可以靠手腕的运动自动上弦。

    Winding mechanism - 上弦机构、上弦装置

    Part of a mechanical watch, designed for winding:

    • The winding mechanism of manually wound movements is operated by the crown. The system was developed by Jean-Adrien Philippe in 1842 to replace the key, placed on the back of watch cases.
    • The winding mechanism of self-winding watches is driven by the rotor thanks to wrist movements.
    • 机械钟表的一个部件,为上弦而设计的:
    • 手动上弦机芯的上弦机构是通过表冠操作的。这套系统是Jean-Adrien Philippe于1842年开发出来的,用于取代位于表壳底盖的上弦钥匙。
    • 自上弦机芯的上弦机构是靠手腕的运动带动自动盘运转的。

    Wristwatch - 腕表

    Watch intended to be worn on the wrist. Patek Philippe produces mechanical and quartz wristwatches.戴在手腕上的手表。 百达翡丽生产机械与石英腕表。

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