20205M-001

Silken folds This unique piece in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel pays tribute to the kosode, a traditional Japanese garment of the kimono family whose name signifies “narrow sleeves”. It draws inspiration from a robe in red silk satin dating from the early eighteenth century. Tracing all the outlines of this decoration, depicting snowflakes, bamboo and plum trees in bloom –symbols of longevity, resilience, and rebirth – called for about 30.83 m of gold wire (~62.2 g). The enameller then devoted all the mastery of his art to reproducing the effect of the original embroidery and the garment’s silky folds. Working with a palette of transparent, opaque and semi-transparent enamels in 14 colors he succeeded in reproducing the folds in the fabric in a stunning trompe-l’œil. With 4 further colors of miniature painting on enamel, he brought out the fine details of the embroidered ornaments. Gold and silver leaf, embedded beneath the enamel according to the technique of paillonné enameling, perfectly reproduced the satin sheen of the kosode. Each enameled plate underwent 14 firings at a temperature approaching 770°C. An hour circle adorned with a striated sunburst presents applied Arabic numerals and leaf-shaped hands, both fashioned in gilt and coated with burgundy lacquer. This piece is powered by the caliber 17’’’ PEND mechanical movement rewound by an electric motor.