artisans of time
hand finishing
At Patek Philippe, our wide array of finishings and decorations are done by hand using age-old techniques that are considered some of the most demanding.
At our family-owned company, everything we do relies on the skills and creativity of our people. Very human skills that cannot be rushed or replaced. Only humans can accept the challenge to always push the limits of what is possible.
Impeccable human touch
Hand finishing is not only carried out for aesthetic purposes but because it allows us to increase the performance and durability of our watches. When performed on movement components, hand finishing takes on an extraordinary artistic dimension. Faced with surfaces that are so minuscule, our specialists are sometimes forced to resort to binocular microscopes.
softening
Finishing smoothes away any tiny burrs or traces of machining that may impede perfect movement; hones edges that will move against each other; protects against oxidation; and the different processes also transform dull metal into a material of burnished, alluring beauty. The tool of choice to achieve the perfect surface is often a hand lathe with emery paper.
beveling
Beveling or chamfering, known as anglage in French, is considered one of the most complicated of finish methods. The sharp edge between the surface and the flank is cut away to a smooth 45° curve, then polished to a gleam. It requires a delicate balance of pressure not to deform the component and when done right it will highlight the shape of the part, creating a breathtaking play of light.
circular satin finish
These circular patterns can be typically found on the surface of our metal movement components. Using a hand lathe and emery paper, the brass and nickel-silver parts of a watch are firmly smoothed so that the surface receives fine circular lines that ultimately produce a velvety, tunnel-like illusion.
Straight graining
This is a simple aesthetic detail that makes the interior of the watch even more striking. With a tool such as an abrasive pencil, the artisan strategically parallel strokes the surface along the squared-off sides of a part. The technique results in the appearance of the metal having a dense, velvety matt grain.
sinking the holes
A straightforward name for an inspired procedure that creates a sink, for either screws or gemstones. With a jewelry tool soaked in benzine, a concave chamfer or incurving edge – called a sink – is carved, by twisting, into a previously machined hole. It is then highly polished to perfection.
circular graining
This technique is called perlage in French due to its resemblance to a row of pearls. Surfaces of the main plate and the bridges are circular-grained to create a pattern of interlaced circles. Using a round abrasive polisher fitted into a rotating head, our specialist needs a trained eye and a steady hand to create linear, rhythmic rows. Never the same, these decorations, with hundreds of graduated “pearls,” make the part unique.
polishing
Mirror polishing, or poli noir, creates a stunning black or gray shine on steel, achieved using a diamond-paste-coated zinc plate. Pinion ends, tiny cogwheels in the gear-train, are polished with a leather wheel, while their teeth are smoothed with a wooden grinding wheel. The pinion's flat inner planes are polished using a hard metal wheel, ensuring longevity and aesthetic perfection.
sunburst
Sunburst, typically found on dials, requires a brush with metal bristles with the abrasive paste to create rays spreading from the center to the edges of the dial. This needs an infinitely steady hand and when the completed dial pivots on its axis, it will reveal a glorious sunburst effect.
Vertical satin-brushed
Vertical satin-brushed surfaces are achieved using a metal-bristle brush and abrasive paste. It is imperative that every bristle of the brush is exactly the same length and completely straight as the brush is drawn downward with exquisite care to ensure the result, as even the slightest inconsistency can have a tremendous impact.
sand-blasting
Here the dial is carefully positioned in a machine and ferociously blasted with the crushed rock and water mix until the dial is stippled with a finely grained surface. This technique is also used for velvet finishing, which is achieved with two consecutive styles of sand-blasting. The first is the straightforward original, as above, for a matt surface, and then using cream of tartar as an abrasive for a softer, cream-colored effect.
