artisans of time

the art of gemsetting

a world of lights

Where watchmaking meets Haute Joaillerie. Our gemsetters practice an extremely delicate art, which requires skills that are further refined over time. We respect time-honored techniques that rely on crafting by hand with meticulous care and are committed to preserving this intricate craft. One that allows us to embrace the knowledge of harnessing light to enhance watchmaking marvels.

Precision and regard for the shape and character of the gem is vital to achieve the brightest radiance.

our diamonds and gemstones

Any gem we select – diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald – is the very finest of its kind, and complies with our strict quality criteria. Our diamonds are internally flawless and display an immaculate cut.

Particular attention is placed on the shape and character of gems, which are vital to achieving brilliant radiance.

Each precious stone must be set in a specific, previously marked guide hole.

Our gemsetters meticulously place every single gem in the same direction and at the same height.

the gemsetter’s skill

The gemsetter enhances a timepiece and has thus to adjust to the constraints of watchmaking. Ultra-thin movements; new, sometimes unlikely alloys; decorations applied to every part of the watch from bracelet to dial as well as the lugs, case middle and bezel: all these elements influence the choices for the gemsetter to select the right techniques.

Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

Ref. 7118/1450R is entirely paved with snow-set diamonds on the case, bezel and bracelet. On the dial, the stones are set with a slightly raised wave pattern.

mandalas

The bezel of this Rare Handcrafts Calatrava watch, Ref. 5089/300G-001, is set with 72 blue triangular-shaped topazes (1.59 ct).

Formula One car

Rare Handcrafts Calatrava wristwatch with a two-tone bezel lit by 24 baguette-cut diamonds and 24 baguette-cut rubies.

gemsetting techniques

The art of gemsetting reflects centuries of experience, and we have come to perfect even the most elaborate techniques. The timepieces created in our ateliers unite all the major setting methods as well as the extremely sophisticated invisible setting, entrusted to the most accomplished specialists. While the intricate micromechanical inner workings may not always be seen, our gemsetting can redefine the entire aesthetics of a watch.

grain setting

Pavé grain and grain settings creates a row of gems that can transform a watch by adding a discreetly luxurious touch. Our gemsetter uses a highly precise form of grain setting peculiar to Patek Philippe, to ensure that each diamond is securely held in place with small hand-formed grains of gold that are barely visible to the eye. The creation is smooth to the touch and radiates a harmonious elegance.

Flamme® technique

We created and introduced this technique in 2016 on a Calatrava Ref. 7200. This method amplifies the fire of diamonds by not only bathing the pavilions in light but also showcasing the true artistry of our gemsetters. Every stone is meticulously set vertically, equidistantly, and with even depth, ensuring perfect alignment with the case contours. The setting geometry is chosen to cover the largest possible area of the metal.

invisible setting

The invisible or mystery setting is typically reserved for baguette diamonds and colored precious stones. It demands the pinnacle of craftsmanship, given the delicate nature of stones with angles often at 90° or less. The intricate technique involves seamlessly integrating and securing the stones with accuracy to fractions of a millimeter. This symphony requires the utmost dexterity and an ultra-sharp eye of a true artisan.

snow setting

Snow setting, or random setting, offers a canvas for our gemsetter to have the greatest freedom of expression. Using stones of varying sizes, carefully prepared by a skilled gemologist, they craft a harmonious composition with minimal metal showing between the stones. Each gem is secured by at least two or three grains. Our setters create their own distinct pattern of holes, allowing their creativity to thrive.