The Art of Gemsetting

a world of lights

Where watchmaking meets Haute Joaillerie. Our gemsetters practice an extremely delicate art, which requires skills that are further refined over time. We respect time-honored techniques that rely on crafting by hand with meticulous care and are committed to preserving this intricate craft. One that allows us to embrace the knowledge of harnessing light to enhance watchmaking marvels.

Precision and regard for the shape and character of the gem is vital to achieve the brightest radiance.

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our diamonds and gemstones

Any gem we select – diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald – is the very finest of its kind, and complies with our strict quality criteria.

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Particular attention is placed on the shape and character of gems, which are vital to achieving brilliant radiance.

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Each precious stone must be set in a specific, previously marked guide hole.

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Our gemsetters meticulously place every single gem in the same direction and at the same height.

the gemsetter’s skill

The gemsetter enhances a timepiece and has thus to adjust to the constraints of watchmaking. Ultra-thin movements; new, sometimes unlikely alloys; decorations applied to every part of the watch from bracelet to dial as well as the lugs, case middle and bezel: all these elements influence the choices for the gemsetter to select the right techniques.

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Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

Ref. 7118/1450R is entirely paved with snow-set diamonds on the case, bezel and bracelet. On the dial, the stones are set with a slightly raised wave pattern.

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Annual Calendar Joaillerie

The gemsetter meticulously checks the 388 diamonds set on this Annual Calendar (Ref. 4948R) to ensure that the sparkle of diamonds highlights the elegance of the case and bezel.

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Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Joaillerie

The gemsetter verifies the baguette-cut rubies on the bezel, lugs and folding clasp of this jewelry version of the platinum perpetual calendar chronograph (Ref. 5271/12P).

gemsetting techniques

The art of gemsetting reflects centuries of experience, and we have come to perfect even the most elaborate techniques. The timepieces created in our ateliers unite all the major setting methods as well as the extremely sophisticated invisible setting, entrusted to the most accomplished specialists. While the intricate micromechanical inner workings may not always be seen, our gemsetting can redefine the entire aesthetics of a watch.

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On the Annual Calendar Ref. 4948R, the precise holes for each diamond are carefully handcrafted using Patek Philippe’s meticulous grain setting technique.

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Our gemsetter secures each and every diamond with small hand-formed gold grains that are nearly invisible to the eye.

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The result is a smooth, silky surface whose discreet sparkle brings a refined, harmonious elegance to this Annual Calendar (Ref. 4948R).

Grain Setting

Pavé grain and grain settings creates a row of gems that can transform a watch by adding a discreetly luxurious touch. Our gemsetter uses a highly precise form of grain setting peculiar to Patek Philippe, to ensure that each diamond is securely held in place with small hand-formed grains of gold that are barely visible to the eye. The creation is smooth to the touch and radiates a harmonious elegance.

Flamme® technique

We created and introduced this technique in 2016 on a Calatrava Ref. 7200. It amplifies the fire of diamonds by not only bathing the pavilions in light but also showcasing the true artistry of our gemsetters. Every stone is meticulously set vertically, equidistantly, and with even depth, ensuring perfect alignment with the case contours. The setting geometry is chosen to cover the largest possible area of the metal.

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invisible setting

Invisible setting relies on stones specially prepared by the lapidary, featuring a horizontal groove that allows them to be inserted into a custom machined rail. Secured with no visible metal, they require absolute precision, as once set, they cannot be removed. This delicate technique is used for both diamonds and colored stones.

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snow setting

The aim of this technique is to leave as little metal visible between the stones as possible. The setter creates the beads himself and can work with a range of ten to twenty different stone sizes, allowing his creativity to fully express itself. Known as “snow setting” or “random setting,” it offers the greatest freedom of expression, with each composition guided by the setter’s eye and aesthetic sense.